My First Time Celebrating Carnaval in Brazil

Dripping in sweat, hands in the air, feet that are banging on the stone paved ground beneath you.

You never knew you could dance so hard in your life. It doesn’t even really feel like you are dancing, but rather that you are simply doing your part to move the true dancer… the body that has formed out of the million people lining these Salvadoran streets.

With each beat of the passing concert car (trio) the whole crowd moves in unison jumping up and down shaking their hips and waving their arms to the night sky above.

In a crowd this large it’s as easy to lose yourself as it is to lose your companions. The mass of dancing bodies acts as a raging river with currents that can sweep you up and away from your intended destination.

The best strategy for attending carnival is to make sure that your group has a meeting point in case anyone becomes separated. In Salvador it’s relatively easy to find a fixed location as a return destination because the parade only follows one street that winds along the coast. Secondly, only bring a small amount of cash and a cell phone in a small fanny pack that you wear under your clothes.

Even if you have a pack that is snug tight against your body, but not under your attire, your items are likely to get stolen. The reason for this is that when you are surrounded by people that are bumping into you from every side, your body naturally becomes desensitized to what it feels like if someone is reaching into your pocket or fanny pack.

A common practice for pick pockets all over the world is to bump into your upper arm and as you are distracted by the feeling on your upper body, they reach around into your back pocket.

Keep this in mind. This is not to say that the Salvadoran carnival is composed of a particularly malicious crowd, but in any massive, chaotic, and overly stimulating mass of people it is 100% essential to keep your belongings pressed right against your skin.

A good rule of thumb is that if your belongings are hard for you to access, they’ll be 10x harder for someone else to get to.

Furthermore, because the music comes from concerts that play on wheels, when a  truck passes by the music is so loud it may feel dangerous for your ears. Many people find earplugs to be one of the most valuable assets to possess as the massive semi trucks blast the voices of the live performers to the crowd below.

Important travel tip: Don’t forget about your medical insurance!

I always make sure that I’m covered by medical insurance when I’m traveling, especially when I’m going on a trip as crazy as Carnival in Brazil. Most importantly, it provides peace of mind. You never know what might happen and it’s comforting to know that you won’t be hit with unexpected costs abroad.

I highly recommend SafetyWing Insurance because it was created by digital nomads who understand the needs of adventurous travelers.

They have such reasonable rates, particularly for people who travel for an extended period of time.

Coverage starts from $37 for 4 weeks or just $1.32 per day! There is no cap on the duration of the trip and no need to pay for all of your insurance up front.

You can also specify specific dates and get a quote for your full trip. It also covers ALMOST every travel destination so when you want to head to Brazil for a crazy week in Carnival, you’ll be covered if you run into any unexpected illnesses or injuries.'

When it comes to the Salvador carnival, any type of outfit is welcomed.

Locals treat this occasion as a time to dress in the most ludicrous, elegant, dazzling, and hilarious outfits they can create. Tourists  who dress in outrageous outfits as well are often applauded and welcomed.

The most important piece of clothing however is closed toed shoes. In a crowd this large and compact your feet will get stepped on, so it’s important to protect yourself.

Another particularly challenging aspect of carnival is the use of public restrooms. Though there are many they are located at the beginning, middle and end of the street.

Unless you are willing to maneuver through a crowd of half a million people in order to reach the portable toilets, I would recommend not drinking alcohol (as this tends to make you have to pee more) and to SLIGHTLY limit your water intake.

Because the Brazilian summer is so hot and humid, especially in a dancing crowd of this magnitude, it is important to stay hydrated. Just try and be in tune with your body to find the perfect medium of being hydrated but without having too full of a bladder.

As with every giant celebration, you will encounter the full spectrum of people’s personalities. Some will excitedly welcome you dance with them and be thrilled when you ask to take photos with them in their extravagant costumes.

On the other hand, some may be tense or even looking for a confrontation, so as you maneuver through the city’s streets it is imperative to be aware of how your presence is affecting those around you.

The threat of someone arriving to carnival with malicious intent from the get go seems relatively rare, but there are squads of police there that are there for your and everyone else’s protection.

Remember carnival is a celebration. People are there to enjoy themselves and party harder than they have all year. It always begins the week before Ash Wednesday and before lent; the Christian fast that precedes Easter.

People all over the country are gifting themselves the freedom to bask in their greatest pleasures. In Salvador, Carnaval is a parade filled with joy and passion. The passion felt on the dance floor is only rivaled by the embraces of lovers.

Carnival truly is the time for the soul to celebrate its human form. To dance, to love, to sing, to rage, to kiss and to feel. In smaller communities outside of Brazil’s larger cities, carnival is less about partying and more about celebrating community and cultural heritage.

Children dressed in white are held by their mothers as people of all ages sing and dance their way through the town’s festively decorated streets. White flowers and red roses elegantly complement the traditional white dress of the black Bahian women.

Everyone is smiling. Everyone is dancing.

And everyone is proudly welcoming you to share in the rich culture that they call home.

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My Travel Photo & Video Gear

I started taking photos when I was just a kid, using any camera I could get my hands on. One of the most important aspects of travel photography & videography is that you don’t let the craving for high quality, expensive camera gear get in the way of capturing your perspective now.

Some of my earliest iPhone photos have ended up being some of the most meaningful photos I’ve ever taken.

That being said, when I decided to turn my passion for travel into a career, I invested in my business by upgrading to a mirrorless digital camera. I don’t have an educational background in photography so I don’t use all the correct terms to describe exactly why I chose to use the gear that I have.

Nonetheless, I have taught myself everything I needed know about creating content to tell stories, capture experiences and build a brand.

Pro Photo Tip for Beginners: Start shooting RAW even if you don’t understand why, you’ll thank yourself later. Trust me.

Shooting with Fujifilm

The Fujifilm XT2  was my go-to camera for travel photography for 3+ years. The majority of the photos I’ve ever taken on my travels and for my business has been with the XT2 and I was very happy with it for years.

I highly recommend this camera because it’s very light weight, durable and weather resistant (I definitely tested that!) and it’s very intuitively designed making it ideal for beginner photographers.

Here’s the lenses I had in my kit:

Fujinon XF 18-55mm f2.8-4 

• This was the lens I used every single day and most of my photos have been shot on this lens.

Fujifilm Fujinon XF 35mm F2

Fujinon XF55-200mmF3.5-4.8 

Why I Switched to the Sony A7R iii

The main reason why I decided to switch from my Fujifilm XT2 was because the video stabilization wasn’t great in comparison to other cameras.

Personally, it felt that the XT2 was geared more towards photography than videography and the video quality I was shooting with my XT2 wasn’t the quality that I was looking for to start creating videos for Youtube.

Source: Apotelyt

I fell in love with the Sony Alpha series, especially the Sony A7R iii for so many reasons.

This camera shoots fantastic high resolution photos as well as incredibly stable, 4K video- even in low light!

This basically makes the camera the best of both worlds (photo and video). It’s light weight enough to film vlog style videos while holding it in one hand and it’s small enough to pass as a discrete, somewhat casual camera which goes a long way when trying to film unique travel experiences in social environments.

The price difference between the Sony A7Riii and the Fujifilm XT2 is significant but I found it to be worth the difference in higher quality content for my business.

I’m now shooting the Sony FE 16-35 mm f/2.8 GM lens which is a perfect wide angle lens for vlogging.

I also upgraded my microphone to the Rode VideoMic Pro because it’s definitely the most durable of the microphone extensions that I have tested out.

Thank you so much to B&H Photo for my dream camera set up & for empowering women around the world to create stories and capture beautiful experiences!

The rapidly changing landscape of budget airline fees

Since the idea of a budget airline was born there has been countless ways these “low-cost carriers” have experimented to bring in more money from each passenger.

From a business perspective, it might make sense that you would want to squeeze as much money from each passenger as they fly on your airline, but as a passenger, it can really add up and end up costing you way more than you thought for that leg of your trip.

In this article, I will talk about some of the new-fangled ways, and some of the old, that these airlines are using to try and squeeze every penny out of you on each flight.

Not all airlines are budget airlines, the airlines I will be addressing in this article are low-cost carriers you may know the names of like Ryanair, Southwest, Air Asia, Norwegian, Frontier, Lion Air, or EasyJet.

Those are just a few of the largest budget airlines in the world, but there are now hundreds of these types of airlines spread all over the world. Of these hundreds of airlines, they all range in how hard they try to rip you off. I’ve flown hundreds of times now, and many times on budget airlines.

Source: Wikipedia 

In this list Southwest and Air Asia are two airlines that stand out as particularly honest and straightforward with their fees in my experience.

On the other end of the spectrum are airlines like Lion Air and Norwegian who try their best to trick you into paying more fees rather than being up front with what baggage fees etc. you should expect.

When budget airlines first came around, they were really just focused on providing cheaper flights while limiting the amount of baggage and space per passenger.

This meant they could fill a plane up with more people and less baggage and make a profit with lower average ticket prices. But as more and more low-cost carriers came on the scene, the landscape became more competitive and these airlines had to find new ways to keep ticket prices down, while still turning a profit.

Now, many years down the road, we are starting to see some very questionable tactics used by airlines especially in parts of the world with less consumer protections and government regulation.

This is especially true in Thailand where Thai Lion Air is gouging their customers with baggage fees up to $400 per checked bag when they arrive at the airport.

Many times, a ticket on this airline is under $100 so this can be up to 400% your original ticket price just in baggage fees.

I’ve seen countless reviews of extremely frustrated passengers who have run into this issue, the best way to avoid those fees is to buy Thai Lion Air baggage in advance at least one day before your flight.

If you do that the fees can be quite reasonable.

Another huge source of fees on these airlines is for changing your reservation. If you book a flight and then you want to change the dates you will fly in or out, many times you’ll have to pay a very large fee.

These fees are actually more expensive on many budget airlines because it’s another way to make a bit more revenue.

In fact, change and cancellation fees account for billions of dollars per year in revenue for airlines around the world. If you are booking with a budget airline and you’re unsure if you’ll need to change the dates at some point, you might want to buy cancellation insurance when you book.

Upgrades is another big way that airlines will try to get you to spend more. More leg room, faster boarding, reserved seats, in-flight drinks, snacks, and meals.

All of these things are laid out along the way in order to try and entice you to spend just a bit more for comfort.

I’ve been caught on a budget flight very hungry and had to purchase a meal before. It’s best if you plan ahead and pack a bit of food for yourself so you don’t get stuck paying for really awful food that costs $15 per meal many times.

A little bit of planning can go a long way there.

Some airlines like Blue Panorama in Italy are doing crazy things like charging crazy fees for making changes to your booking.

When you book a flight on their website they make it very difficult to add your middle name, but when you arrive at the airport they will tell you your middle name needs to be on your booking and it will cost 50 Euros to make that change.

Many passengers have run into this scam and it really is awful to have to pay stupid fees like that.

It’s always a good idea to do a bit of research before-hand on the airline you are going to book with to make sure they are not doing things like this.

If you do put in a bit of work before hand, most of the fees that budget airlines charge can be avoided and you can fly around the world on a very small budget.

It’s all about being informed and planning in advance so you can take advantage of the very cheap fares these airlines offer without getting caught paying big fees at the airport or on your flight.

Thanks for reading!

Travel Tips for Solo Female Travelers

Some of the questions I’m asked the most often revolve around if I get scared traveling alone as a woman or if I feel safe in the more dangerous countries around the world.

Personally, I get freaked out the most by the hypothetical scenarios I make up in my head rather than what might realistically happen to me. I think its like this for most people. We become afraid of what we hear on the news without realistically understanding how low the probability is of actually having an issue.

I traveled to 72 countries with my family and friends by the time I was 18 so when I started traveling solo I already had enough experience to feel comfortable navigating airports, cities, etc.. 

On that note, I have a lot of recommendations for women who don’t have much prior travel experience but are ready to start exploring the world, regardless of whether or not their family, friends or partners can join them.

The first thing I recommend to other women is to gradually transition into solo travel- go on a trip with your friends (if possible) and start in places with infrastructure for tourism like Europe or South East Asia.

Don’t let anyone tell you it’s too dangerous because all you need to navigate the world safely is common sense. Bad things can happen anywhere at any time so you shouldn’t let fear dictate what you do with your time. 

Create the Illusion that You Know What You’re Doing

Booking everything in advance has become somewhat taboo throughout the vagabond movement because people think that it leaves less opportunity for spontaneity.

I agree with this to a certain extent because you aren’t as flexible in places like Europe or South East Asia but planning has been a essential part of my safety while traveling, especially in countries with bad reputations. It would have been impossible to travel to every country without a very structured itinerary.

Make no mistake though, spontaneous adventures will find you whether or not you specifically allotted time for them.

Planning Ahead

When I’m alone I always have flights and hotels booked ahead of time so I don’t end up on the street without a place to stay.

This aspect can be more flexible for men but unfortunately as a woman its never been something I’ve been willing to risk.

I always have a general idea where I’m going so I don’t look like a lost target waiting to be preyed upon by someone trying to scam me. It also helps to budget how much money you’ll need for a trip.

I usually plan on spending at least $50 a day and have an emergency reserve.

I bring at least $1000 USD in cash on trips over two weeks just in case there are any problems with my debit card. Running out of money and having no way to access more is scary and can be easily avoided.

If you’re really nervous about going to a new country, I highly recommend hiring a local English speaking guide to show you around, at least for the first day.

You can usually ask around for someone at any hotel or hostel. It can be a bit pricey but its definitely worth it & you’ll see the place from the perspective of a local which is always good idea.

What to Wear

Here’s some advice specifically for women who want to travel off the beaten path: Always do your homework. Research the country that you’re traveling to before you start packing.

Would it be appropriate to expose my thighs and shoulders? Do I need to bring a hijab? Would I feel socially awkward if I wore this?

Always make sure to google the religion of a country before going there because you would be surprised. Understand the basics of Islamic culture to avoid being disrespectful.

For example, in the capital of Maldives, Mali, you are not permitted to wear a bikini on the beach because of the strict Islamic culture. Or you might be pleasantly surprised to discover that abayas are mandatory in Saudi Arabia, but hijab are not. Unlike some female influencers, I don’t have the budget to go out and buy stylish long dresses, abayas etc. but I’ve found the old, baggy clothes buried deep in my closet will manage just fine.

Little things like this can help you keep the costs of your trip down because believe it or not, the most expensive places to travel are the least visited countries in the world.

The right scarf can be used as a headscarf and a skirt if you’re resourceful. Try to be the least attractive as possible, trust me, you’ll feel so much more comfortable. I call this look below “Please don’t sexually harass me” 

How to Take Good Photos of Yourself

Unless you’re dating a professional photographer, the reality is no one is going to take great photos of you. Which is fine because if you’re independent enough to travel alone the first place, you can learn how to do it yourself. Tripods, self timers etc. are all good options.

My personal favorite and what I do for 90% of my photos is asking strangers or new friends to take photos for me. It’s good to profile people who have a big camera or look young enough to have an idea of what you’re going for.

If there’s no one like that around then set up the exact frame of the shot first, then ask someone. Over explain. Show them the exact angle you’re looking for and show them where you’re going to stand. Ask them to take a bunch of photos and pray that they’ll get a decent shot but be prepared to be slightly disappointed. Usually random people will never take as good of a photo as you would yourself but I’ve gotten really lucky! 

Advice for More ‘Advanced’ Destinations

As I mentioned above, having a plan is really important in lesser visited countries- can’t stress that enough. Things work very differently in Africa and the Middle East than they do in the US or Europe.

If you want to travel to offbeat places, you’re going to have to get comfortable with people staring at you- especially if you’re a white woman. This has actually been one of the things I’ve struggled with the most during the past year. Sometimes you’ll find yourself in situations where everyone on the street is staring at you for whatever reason.

These looks can feel like judgmental scowls and I’ve felt peoples eyes burning holes through me countless times. It thickens the skin.

Attitude is everything

Recognize that smiling in certain cultures can be considered a sign of weakness so don’t always smile but carry the energy as if you are. Sometimes you’ll have to pretend to be in a good mood because more often then not, bad things happen to people with a bad attitude. 

Common Sense

Above all, common sense is the most important thing you can bring with you when you’re traveling alone. If you’re on a tight budget, know in advance exactly how much your taxi from the airport to the hotel should cost to avoid being ripped off.

Only use certified taxis and don’t be afraid to ask to see their certifications if they’re using their personal cars. Know what the proper currency exchanges are and avoid changing money at a higher rate from the airport if possible. Don’t follow anyone you just met into secluded areas under any circumstances, especially at night.

The two best pieces of advice I could give to a women traveling alone is:

1. Don’t get uncontrollably intoxicated and

2. Don’t go out alone at night unless you’re with other people.

These are very simple, somewhat straight edge and boring rules but following them has kept me out of trouble 100% of the time.

Another really important social skill I’ve cultivated is when I’m walking around markets or shops and men are breathing down my neck trying to hustle me.

I either don’t acknowledge them or I tell them to take a step back. Don’t let strangers think they can take advantage of you.

Confidence is key. All of these tips might sound obvious but you would be surprised how easy it is to make mistakes when you simply aren’t being mindful. 

Traveling alone is one of the most empowering things you can do for yourself, regardless of your gender. After traveling to 190 countries, I can say for certain that women do not have to live in fear of the world as long as you move with awareness and common sense. 

I’m not saying that bad things don’t happen because they most certainly do. However, terrible things and scary people can be found anywhere in the world.

That doesn’t mean that you should live your life in fear and miss out on the experiences that will change your life.

Be smart, have fun & change the world ladies!

“This is My Venezuela”

My Week in Venezuela

I’ll admit that I was a little nervous about traveling here because the press paints a picture of Venezuela to be a completely unstable and violent place that no one should even think of visiting.

The financial and political crisis covered by the media is a very serious issue. However, I learned so much about the situation during my time there and from my uninformed perspective, these problems haven’t changed the fact that Venezuelans are good people just like everywhere else in the world.

This misunderstood country really solidified my belief that you can’t put too much weight on the way the media portrays a country without experiencing it firsthand.

After networking with people living in Venezuela and making arrangements for the trip, I felt comfortable enough to take the risk and see for myself what the country was all about.  

Traveling to offbeat places has an interesting way of bringing people together. Mike and I had never met before we decided to do this trip together.

I casually told him it was on my bucket list to go to Angel Falls and he said he wanted to visit his friend who was living in Venezuela. Thus this crazy adventure was born and we ran with it. I flew home from Europe specifically to apply for my visa and left three days after it was issued.

He really took the initiative and discovered nothing is easy when it comes to Venezuela. Trips like this don’t just happen. They take effort from everyone involved so finding someone willing to take that on with you makes all the difference.

Hours of back and forth conversations with the fixer, bank transfers, confusing itineraries with multiple flights etc. This trip would not have been possible for me without Mike and his connections.

It took a few uneventful days to get all the way into Canaima National Park but once we arrived, we instantly knew it was worth all the time and energy it took to get there.

The little town of Canaima is surrounded by powerful waterfalls and dense jungle. We spent a day exploring the trails and ended up behind my new favorite waterfall, Salto El Sapo.

We woke up early to start our 4 hour boat ride up the river to Angel Falls. It was just Mike and I, our guide and three local hunters who made the trip.

The river was winding and surrounded by epic mountain tops. As we turned the last corner and Angel Falls came into view for the first time, warm rain started pouring down. We ran around like excited little kids when we got to our camp, the feeling of being in this place completely alone was surreal. 

After making dinner and setting up our hammocks, our guide passed out at 7 PM. We went exploring through the jungle at night and Mike taught me how to find spiders using a headlamp and the reflection of their eyes. I was blown away how much more alive the jungle becomes at night. 

 In the morning we hiked through the jungle for a few miles, our machete happy guide leading the way. It looked like the path hadn’t been walked on for a while. Once we made it to the trails end, we were sticky and sweaty and beyond stoked. Looking up at the falls, you couldn’t tell where the clouds ended and the waterfall began. 

When we were swimming in the pool at the base of Angel Falls, Mike and I looked at each other and realized that this is what the maximum level of happiness feels like.

In that moment, all the worries and distractions of real life faded away and all that was left was the human connection between nature and the spirit of adventure. There was nothing that could have made the experience any better than it already was.

I consciously tried to remember everything about that feeling because I knew it was only temporary and I want to be able to channel that energy into my daily life. For me, these realizations are what traveling is all about. Before you leave you have no idea how much you’re going to get out of these experiences.

We made it back to Canaima after a long day on the boat. Mike and I went to have dinner in our little hotel to find the room packed with people.

There was a local choir group of young kids playing violins, cello and singing in Spanish. I thought it was just a cute show the kids were putting on for their families. When they finished their songs, a man came up and gave a speech that made almost everyone in the room start to cry.

It was such an interesting perspective for me because I had literally no idea what they were talking about but the emotion in the room was palpable.

As Mike and I were standing there watching this whole situation unfold, a woman with tears running down her face leaned over to Mike and said, “This is my Venezuela”.

The group of children sang a song about Venezuelan heritage to the Air Force fighter pilots who were visiting Canaima. It was so beautiful to see the way these military men connect with the local people in such a genuine way that they couldn’t even hold back their emotions. We ended up drinking low quality rum with everyone. I’ve never danced salsa before and it was so hilarious to have men and women take turns trying to get my clumsy body to do the right moves.

It literally felt like Latin American people have some extra bone in their legs that allows them to move to the rhythm in ways I’m literally incapable of doing.

We laughed and danced with the Air Force for hours that night. Venezuelans have such a unique fire and passion imbedded in their culture.

They take so much pride in their country and they deserve so much more than their current economic and political situation.

We were made to feel so welcome and as incredible as Canaima National Park is, this is the side of Venezuela that left the greatest impression.

Thank you to Mike Corey, Sandy Corey and Pablo Martínez for making this dream a reality! 

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Information for Travelers Looking to Go to Venezuela

Visa and Itinerary

As an American, I was required to obtain a visa before traveling to Venezuela. A letter of invitation was not necessary. I applied in September 2018 at the embassy in San Francisco and waited until the Consular had time for me to explain why I really wanted to go to Venezuela.

The visa was approved two weeks later.

Miami is the easiest place to fly to Caracas.

My plan was to make it to Angel Falls and spend a few days with some friends in Lecheria afterwards.

I stayed at the Eurobuilding airport hotel in Caracas to catch the flight to Puerto Ordaz the following morning. I was met by my travel agent Pablo in Puerto Ordaz and stayed one night there before taking a small charter flight to  Canaima.

We stayed 1 night in a guesthouse in Canaima then spent a full day traveling by boat to Angel Falls.

We camped out in hammocks beneath the falls and spent the next day hiking and swimming under Angel Falls. We spent one last night in Canaima afterwards before flying back to Puerto Ordaz. We drove with friends to Lecheria (Barcelona) and also to Caracas.

We were stopped and searched one time at a checkpoint which wasn’t a big deal, nothing along the way felt unsafe (we mainly traveled during the day).

I spent some time in Caracas on the back end of the trip and beyond a few inconvenient power outages, had a great experience without any issues. In total I spent 8 days traveling throughout the country by air and by car and I felt safe the entire time I was there.

Arranging the trip ahead of time made everything so much easier. If I had more time in Venezuela, I would have spent time in Los Roques and Margarita Island.

Dealing with money in Venezuela was a bit complicated.

I changed USD for bolívares soberanos in the Caracas airport which ended up being the best option because it was difficult to find other currency exchanges throughout the country.

Make sure to pay for as much as you can (flights, tours, etc.) before you go. For the most part, locals rely on bank transfers for everyday expenses.

A money transfer app called Zelle is also recommended although it didn’t work for me.

If you are planning a trip to Venezuela I highly recommend Pablo Martínez from FLYHIGHPM.

His contact information is +58(424)899-5637 on WhatsApp and pablomrivero.98@gmail.com.

IMPRESSIONS OF AUSCHWITZ

Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camp

Auschwitz-Birkenau operated from 1940 – 1945 outside Warsaw, Poland. It was the largest WWII Nazi concentration and death camp.

More than 1.1 million people (90% jews) were murdered by the SS in Auschwitz. Its considered one of the most catastrophic sites of methodical mass extermination in modern human history.

When you think that you understand what happened during the holocaust… you don’t. The extent of human suffering that occurred during this time is beyond comprehension. I hid from the experience I had at Auschwitz for a long time. I was overwhelmed and didn’t know how to come to terms with what I saw.

I finally came to the conclusion that the only thing we can do today to show our respect is by simply continuing to acknowledge what happened. I want to internalize the history in a way that pays a small homage to the people who died here.

To remember the disturbing details even if they make us uncomfortable. Even if its been more than 70 years since the Jews were liberated from Auschwitz.

*Reader discretion advised, contains graphic content.

As we walked the grounds we were told about the living conditions of the Jews during the war. 320 barracks with 700 people in each, 400 people in the wooden ones.

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Crawling with insects. Some had mud floors. Filled with fecies from people too weak to move. Imagine the smell. Freezing cold in the winter. Sweltering in the summertime.

They took us into a basement to see the ‘punishment cells’. A Polish priest once volunteered to die by starvation there to save the life of another prisoner. I stepping into a room containing the ‘standing cells’. The atmosphere was heavy, the air was stagnant and my heart sank into my stomach.

The cells were so small that it was impossible to lie down. They were dark with limited access to air and light. This was the only place on the tour where I broke down.

The panic and claustrophobia I felt from even thinking about being subjected to this degree of torture was too much to handle.   

Hospitals were used for experiments never before preformed on human beings. These criminal experiments included everything from sterilization of women to the torture of twins to see how connected they really were.

When we entered the gas chambers and the crematorium I couldn’t believe I was standing before the furnace that once burned bodies endlessly throughout the day and night. This crematorium couldn’t even keep up with the demand. The Nazis literally couldn’t murder people fast enough despite their efficiencies.

They would make everyone remove their clothes, telling them to remember where they put them so they could find them again easily.

They would shove 2000 people in the gas chamber. The people standing directly next to the vents would die immediately.

For others it would take 15 minutes. After 20 minutes everyone would be laying on the floor. Then they would gather the bodies, collect the gold from their teeth and cut off the useful hair. 15,000 pounds of human hair was repurposed.

The more I learned about Auschwitz I felt extreme hate for Nazis course through my veins but for a moment I tried to open my mind, step into their shoes and see the war from their perspective. If they didn’t follow the orders they were given, the SS would have murdered their whole family without batting an eye.

They would become one of the people in the concentration camps. We are so fast to pass judgement on Nazis but ask yourself, how far would you go to protect the people you love? Would you kill for them? You never know what you’re capable until you are deprived of choice.

Yes, Nazis were some of the most evil humans to ever live but they were also just trying to survive like everyone else. Food for thought…

One thing that I’ve learned from travel is that people cannot be stereotyped, even if they’re the same race. I believe that many Nazis were made of pure evil and racism. I also believe that some were forced to do unspeakable acts of cruelty to save their own lives and the lives of their families.

This war was so much more than the cruelty of individuals. It was built upon such powerful psychological manipulation that normal people lost sight of right and wrong.

There is a myth about a frog in boiling water. It says that if you put a frog in boiling water it will immediately try to escape. However, if you put a frog in cool water and very gradually heat it up, the frog will “be stuck in the comfort of its surroundings,” and stay until its too hot, and too late.

When we land in hot water, we usually react to the metaphorical heat and do something to protect ourselves. It is our human nature to survive.

However, if our environment slowly worsens at barely noticeable rate, we can become oblivious to our surroundings and neglect to challenge the status quo.

Making a choice to change the course of history is difficult – especially if we are unaware of the slippery slope happening all around us. I believe this is exactly what happened in throughout Europe during WWII.

Here are a few films I recommend watching if you want to learn more about the Holocaust:

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How Do I Afford to Travel

My most asked and least favorite question, “How do you pay for travel?”

As much as I would like to have an easy answer for you- I don’t. There is no sercret key to being able to afford to travel the world (unless I haven’t gotten the memo). What I have learned is that no two journeys are the same just as no two destinations are.

I can’t answer the how questions because I don’t know what I’m doing or even where I’m going most of the time. You don’t need to know exactly how someone else has done, whatever it is they are doing. There is no blueprint to success because success is a personal journey.

You just have to pick a direction and get creative. After all, they say if you can see your path laid out in front of you step by step, chances are thats not your path. You forge your own path with every step you take. Thats why its yours.

Since I know this isn’t the answer some of you are looking for, here’s the comprehensive, straight up answer to how I personally make enough money to travel:

Over the years I’ve had many hustles, currently I work 3 very different jobs. I’ve been money hungry since I was 12 years old. I started as a construction rat on my dad’s job sites, mostly painting houses. I eventually turned to landscaping: Weed eating, mowing lawns; classic preteen grunt work.

My friend and I even ran a (wildly successful) lemonade stand until we were way too old for that to be appropriate. 

Once my attention span grew, I started to learn my mom’s business, Adventure Travel Inc.. Beyond being a 24 hr/day airport chauffeur, I’ve worked as a travel consultant for the past 4 1/2 years.

This is where my niche lies; my golden ticket to the world. Frequent flyer miles, IATA travel agent rates, site inspections and all the other wonderful perks of working in the travel industry that fell into my lap because I was raised by workaholic entrepreneurs.

Once my attention span grew, I started to learn my mom’s business, c. Beyond being a 24 hr/day airport chauffeur, I’ve worked as a travel consultant for the past 4 1/2 years.

This is where my niche lies; my golden ticket to the world. Frequent flyer miles, IATA travel agent rates, site inspections and all the other wonderful perks of working in the travel industry that fell into my lap because I was raised by workaholic entrepreneurs. 

It doesn’t hurt that I live at home (rent free) and my family was well off enough to buy me a reliable vehicle when I turned 16.

This created the perfect environment to save almost every dollar I’ve made since I was 12. That was an absolutely essential in order to support my travel addiction. Back then I saved for my dream of taking a work-free gap year; now that gap year turned into 2 or 3 years with intermittent work and a world record.

Contrary to somewhat nosy popular belief, I pay my own bills. When I travel I rely on blogging, freelance photography and selling prints to keep my bank account from drying up.

I also spend an ungodly amount of time researching the best deals and thoroughly learning how to travel to exotic places on a budget. I hope at this point you’re seeing that it isn’t as easy and simple as it looks on social media.

I’ve carefully crafted my income in a way that I’m either working for people sympathetic to my lifestyle or I’m my own boss. There is not a day that goes by that I don’t stress about money. Every single day I’m hustling with the sole purpose of figuring out how I am going to pay for the next country because that’s all I care about at this point in my life.

When you’re so passionate and dedicated to something that you’re willing to sacrifice anything to achieve it, money will follow.

I don’t have all the answers and I’m far from cracking the secret to lifelong success. I used to be convinced that ‘if it can happen to me, it can happen to you.” As time goes on, I’m realizing just how fortunate and privileged I am.

I am a healthy, 20 year old, from America with a loving family supporting me. If I was from another country, I probably couldn’t be doing this. If I had a baby this would be much, much harder if not entirely impossible.

If I knew what I wanted to do for the rest of my life and went to back to college I would be dragged down by student loans right now.

I get reached out by people worldwide, who want to ‘do what I do’ and I never know what to say. It actually keeps me up at night… I don’t want to people suffering from hardships to create self limiting beliefs that they’ll never have the chance to travel because of the cards they were dealt.

I feel guilty and I wish I could offer illustrious financial solutions to the situations that are completely out of our control.

However, a fine line exists between that type of situation and the abundance of people who know they’re capable of doing more but they let laziness and lack of ambition hold them back. 

The best way to achieve the lifestyle you want is to find a place to begin putting in the work. I’ve come to realize in my own life that there is no such thing as being ready. There is no perfect time.

If I wait until I’m ready to do something, I will likely never do it. Every day I have to force myself not to let perfect be the enemy of good. Understand that nothing happens over night, and rarely does anyone feel ready before they take a leap of faith. Now is as good a time as any to start living the life you want because its the only time we have any control over. 

Seeking wisdom from others is a necessary requirement to personal growth. If I can offer any advice, it would be to stop asking people how they afford their lifestyle with the intention of doing it the exact same way. Instead ask with the honest intention of learning from their experiences, not their paychecks.

Chances are that person became successful because they discovered a way of doing things differently and that worked uniquely for them.

Find what makes you special and develop ideas that you’re proud of. After you’ve found your idea, the look at it from a business standpoint.

Find a way to monetize your passion. Be aware of what others are creating, but don’t copy, and remember that comparison will be the death of your creativity.

DIY:

Wake up. 

Make a goal. 

Write that shit down.

Work on it every single day. 

Today is the start of a brand new week.

Don’t waste it on things that aren’t important (to you).

A Story from the City of Mysteries

My trip to Petra in Jordan

It was around 9:30 pm when I finally arrived to the city of Petra in Jordan. I had planned on getting there early in the afternoon but I spent 6+ hours haggling at the border of Israel attempting to cross into Jericho, Palestine (the Israeli border control wouldn’t recognize Palestine as a separate country, story for another time).

By the time I got to my hotel I was exhausted from driving all around the Dead Sea from Amman. I happen to be there on a day they were having the Petra By Night light show.

This had been on my bucket list for ages and the fear of missing out was coursing through my veins.

 Everyone at the hotel including my guide told me that I was much too late to see it because the tour started at 7:30 pm.

There was absolutely no way that I could be there and take no for an answer so I laced up my runners and grabbed my camera. I had no idea where I was going but I eventually found the entrance.

The guard at the gate also told me I was too late to buy a ticket but with a crisp $20 in his hand he was able to look the other way. 

It was a new moon that night and the stars were glowing like fire in the sky.

There were candles in paper bags placed every 6 feet along the trail that lead into the desert. I didn’t know how far away the Treasury was (turned out to be a little more than a mile) and I was completely alone.

The only sound I could hear was my feet hitting the ground as I sprinted into the darkness illuminated only by candlelight. Canyon walls began rising around me. The trail became winding and the walls narrowed so much that I could barely see the stars.

The canyon was so dark that there could have been anyone hiding in the corners and I couldn’t have possibly seen them. This was also a motivating factor to get there as fast as I could. I could hear the echoes of applause.

As I turned the final corner I ran straight into a man who laughed and he told me not to worry, I hadn’t missed a thing. He showed me to an open seat and brought me a cup of tea.

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They began to project a myriad of lights on the Treasury as travelers sat around the candles, staring up in awe. The energy of this time and place can only described as wanderlust.  

The man who I had run into in the canyon began to tell me about himself. He looked exactly like Jack Sparrow with the long hair, beads and red bandana. He spoke only in drunken riddles.

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He explained that he was a Bedouin tribesman who was born in the caves behind Petra. He never went to school and couldn’t read or write. He could speak 5 languages because he works in the little trinket shop across from the Treasury.

Once the show had ended, he offered to take me to a perfect view. There were still many people around so I weighed the risk vs reward and followed him around the dark corner. He lead me top an invisible path  up a cliff to a secluded ledge overlooking the lights.  

Before I even realized it was midnight which marked the beginning of my 20th year around the sun. I was looking down from the ledge at the most beautiful birthday candles I could have ever dreamed of. In this surreal moment I couldn’t comprehend how and why I’ve been given this life. Instead of questioning the experience I simply laid there in the midst of all this beauty, drinking it in, thanking the universe for giving me this moment.

We stayed up on the ledge until we were the last people there, other than his cousins who were picking up all the candles. When we climbed back down we were back in complete darkness. He offered to give me a ride back to the city on the back of his donkey, or as he called her, his Jordanian Ferrari. Laughing about the unprecedented randomness of the situation I hopped on the back of the donkey with him and we rode back through the canyon accompanied by his trusty dog Luna.

The stars were brighter than ever without the light of the candles. The sound of the donkey’s hooves echoed through the narrow gorge.

Then Jack began serenading me, his voice was one of the most enchanting sounds I’ve ever heard. He sung poetic Arabic songs inspired by the desert and I could feel the nomadic influences ripple through his voice. 

He left me at my hotel with a kiss on my hand and we agreed he would show me the real Petra the following morning at 5 am.

When I was planning this trip to Petra I was assuming I would spend my entire 20th birthday alone. This is the most exhilarating part of travel, you literally never know what is going to happen next.

One moment you’re alone absorbing the changing landscapes and reflecting on your personal life and the next you’re completely immersed in another person’s world view.

I went to Petra knowing nothing of the history or way of life and left having had a glimpse of what its like to grow up there. I saw the cave my friend was born in and met his grandmother. I saw the interconnectedness of the Bedouin community who share everything from cigarettes to their Ferraris.

I was brought to places I would have never imagined to be there. I would have never seen those places if I hadn’t been late to that Petra By Night show.

He never asked me for money but he gave me hours of his time because he genuinely wanted me to experience his home.

I’m realizing that everything and everyone that you encounter in life has purpose.

My Teenage Years

In light of my 20th birthday I’ve been consciously reflecting on the experiences I’ve had during my teenage years. I’m attempting to remember all the phases (& there were A LOT of them).

To acknowledge all the emotions, the changing faces, the heartache; the progression and pure confusion. The specifics of everything that happened and the choices I made that lead me here. I can’t help but feel like my future self is watching me through my memories right now so this is my way of capturing what it was like to be a teenager while it’s still fresh in my mind.

There’s many gaping holes in my recollection but I can remember my 13th birthday vividly.

We drove for countless hours into the middle of the desert in Namibia.

I spent most of the day learning how to drive a left handed stick shift pickup. By the time we got to camp I was exhausted. I ran off by myself, climbed a huge rock formation and laid like a starfish at the top. As I watched the sun set over the sand dunes I could feel the change in the air.

There was a storm coming.

Now, on my 20th birthday, I’m coincidentally riding in the back of a pickup truck through the desert in Jordan.

Everything has changed but I can’t help feeling that something greater than myself has lead me back to the desert today.

Being in the middle of the desert emphasizes how tiny human footprints are in the sand. If I had the chance to go back and tell my ignorant 13 year old self something, I wouldn’t say a word because I’m exactly where I’m supposed to be today.

As I’m looking out over this strange, alien landscape I can almost see film grain dancing over years of warped memories. Such an unbelievable amount of life experiences have gone down since I was that 13 year old girl, staring up at the sky, wondering what would happen next.

My life feels so full and complicated and beautiful that I’m literally writing a book to capture it all. For now let’s touch on the relevant parts.

Unnecessary High School Drama 

High school hit me with a tidal wave of depression and self harm. I have trouble looking back at this time in my life because I don’t know who that person was or where she came from. I was angsty, angry and full of emotions I didn’t know how to deal with.

Being in useless classes I had no interest in was mind numbing. Having to sit through it all for 8 hours a day with children I had nothing in common with made everything so much worse. I surrounded myself with poisonous people that only poured fuel onto my fire of negativity.

I completely lost touch with who I am on every level. It took becoming the absolute worst version of myself to find the motivation to change my life. Traveling with the least grateful person I’ve ever met was the straw that broke the camel’s back. When I came back from spring break my Sophomore year I tested out of all my classes and graduated high school at 16.

I broke off relationships with almost every person I knew. That part was messy and uncomfortable but it was a clean break that probably saved my life. I thrived in college, finally being able to study fascinating subjects on a schedule that worked from me.

I shook some bad habits and made a few more in the process but for the first time I felt in control of my own destiny. I finished my first 2 years of college with an AS in Behavioral and Social Sciences with Honors in Astronomy before my class graduated high school in 2016.

European Dream

I spent 5 consecutive summers (age 14-18) traveling to every country in Europe and the experiences I had there shaped me as a person more than anywhere else in the world. One summer spent biking through the endless sunflower fields and chateaus in Southern France.

Another summer exploring the lesser known but equally beautiful corners of Eastern Europe. I drank my first beer with my dad after hiking in the Swiss Alps and ate traditional German sausage from the oldest sausage house in Germany.

I spent a month sailing on a long ship from Romania to Amsterdam via the entire Rhine and Danube rivers. Chasing castles became one of my favorite hobbies and my love for photography was born.

I even got arrested in Rome when I was 18 for flying my drone *near* the Colosseum.

In 2016 I faced my biggest fear: falling. I bungee jumped 220m (750 feet) in Switzerland, the 3rd highest jump in the world. After turning 18 and graduating from college I was asked countless times what I was going to do with my life next. My relationship with my boyfriend exploded in my face.

I felt so pressured to make a decision that I got a ticket to Europe with my friends to go backpacking instead. It began as one of those cliché attempts at finding myself and turned out to be the most special trip of my life. The conclusion I came to was that I wanted to step out of my comfort zone, face all my fears and experience the world in a way I never imagined possible.

This bungee jump was the climax an indescribable spiritual journey. After my feet left the top of the dam all the emotional and physical stress that had overwhelmed me for so long up until that moment ceased to exist. Completely unfiltered emotion poured out of me and resulted in the most relieving sensation I’ve ever felt.

The Record

The very first time I thought about breaking the world record for the Youngest Person to Travel to Every Country was on October 2, 2016.

I had just gotten back from Morocco and I can remember exactly where I was. I came to San Diego to visit one of my best friends from high school. I was laying in his bed unable to sleep, my friends scattered all over the floor. It was nearly 3 am when it hit me.

I reached for my phone excitedly and looked up the Guinness World Record for the first time and when I discovered the current record holder’s age (24 and 192 days) I knew at that exact moment I couldn’t live with myself if I didn’t give this everything I’ve got. Worst comes to worst, I just travel a lot. What could go wrong?

Soulmates

Learning the importance of having someone that understands you

Its sad to think that people live their whole lives without finding a soulmate. Every person needs an accomplice and there is no one in this world that I love more than Brynn. She was the first friend I ever brought on a family trip and the first person I ever traveled alone with.

She walked into my life almost 9 years ago and we’ve been running ever since. We’ve traveled to 15+ countries together, experiencing what it really means to share your life with someone. Rarely do you find someone who is an extension of yourself, someone who is both capable and worthy of unconditional love.

I coerced her into spending all the money she’s ever made on travel and these are the memories that warm my heart the most. Riding on the backs of camels through the Sahara Desert as the Milky Way appeared over our tented camp.

Reading books together on bullet trains through Japan during cherry blossom season. Getting lost in the Hermitage Museum in Russia.

Pushing each other to climb to new heights in the Swiss Alps. Flirting with countless boys who barely spoke English. Sun soaked summers, running around recklessly and getting into all kinds of mischief.

With her I feel like I’ll never have to face the world alone. We’ve always said that we are one person in two bodies and together we fill in each other’s weaknesses. However far away I run from everyone else in my life I know she’s with me.

Soon we will have known each other longer than we haven’t. I realize how rare it is to find a life partner with zero ulterior motives. Its crazy to think I’ll never have another relationship with someone like I do with her because of the history we share.

We went through all the phases, the highs and the lows, together. I feel like the luckiest person that has ever lived, especially because I traveled to 24 countries with my best friend while we were still teenagers.

Pursuit of the Profound

Infinitely blessed. Endlessly grateful.

These have been the greatest and most difficult years of my life. Sometimes I look in the mirror and don’t recognize the person staring back at me. I’m grateful for all the nights that turned into mornings, friends that turned into family, and dreams that turned into reality.

Somewhere along the way I learned that everything is temporary; people, places, emotions. I learned that you simply can’t love others until you love yourself. I’ve given myself permission to be vulnerable because its too easy to be cold in a world that makes it so very difficult to stay soft. I learned all things come in twos like a divine unspoken duality. Life and death.

Pain and joy. Beauty and ugliness. Realizing that you’ll never be this young again but this is the first time you’ve ever been this old. Its the balance of the universe. Its the experience of hurting that makes feeling good so good. I’ve learned that just talking about it really will fix just about anything.

I’ve come to accept that most people who enter into our lives are drifters and their only purpose is to enhance the moment or teach us a lesson or two. I’ve also learned how to identify the nomadic from the ones who are here to stay and that has made all the difference.

I remember asking my dad what he wanted me to be when I grew up and his answer was always the same, “happy”. So in this moment, happiness is my only full time job.

After all, life is too short to suffer. I repeat these words like a mantra; especially when I fall into myself and the perpetuating cycle of everything from ‘this totally sucks’ to ‘I totally suck’. We all make mistakes and bad things happen but its so important not to dwell into the misery, but rather to smile through the tears and make an effort to appreciate the gift of life.

We are so lucky to be alive right now and that should be a enough of a reason to be in a good mood.

I’ve traveled from the Great Pyramids to the Great Wall to the Great Ocean Road. I’ve seen Mount Everest and I’ve floated in the Dead Sea. I’ve chased some of the world’s most beautiful waterfalls and soaked in the most pristine hot springs.

I traveled to my 130th country on my 20th birthday. Nonetheless, I struggle to appreciate where I am in life while I’m there.

I tend to set my sights on the future – always aiming higher, bigger, better. Being too focused on the future means that I let the unknown monopolize all my energy. In this new phase I want to work on living my life more consciously, being present in the moment, and remembering that time is a gift not a given.

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This last year I felt like still being a teenager gave me an edge, but now I have to find a new one. Maybe my edge is just being myself and I’m okay with that.

On this birthday, a part of me feels like a wise old man clasping the pages of a thick, 1000 page book tightly closed. The other part of me feels like a slightly over prepared woman ready to, quite literally, take on the world.

Cheers to an ever changing version of myself and another decade of lessons to learn!

Experiencing China

Learning Lessons from China

China was a learning experience for me in many ways but above all it taught me that I am not yet invincible when it comes to consistently planning the perfect trip.

The first mistake I made in China began before I had even arrived. One of the reasons I’m never disappointed when I travel to new places is because I consciously avoid having expectations. When I was planning my trip to China I had created an idea of what I had always imagined China to be like: Rolling green mountains adorned by the Great Wall. Oriental music guiding me down picturesque market streets.

Consuming as much of my favorite Chinese dishes as possible. Becoming immersed in a rich, ancient culture.

This was not my entirely my experience. My second mistake was visiting China during the winter months. I came to Chengdu and Beijing in February, not completely understanding that it is 30 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and less than 15 degrees at night.  

Since I was coming from South East Asia I was brutally unprepared for the temperature change. I had to spend money I really didn’t have on clothes that I would eventually have to throw away because I didn’t have enough room in my backpack.

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I chose to go to Chengdu because I wanted to see a less touristy city in China. In Chengdu practically no one spoke a word of English which I’ve found is rare, believe it or not. This made navigating and getting recommendations on where to go very difficult. Also, the food wrecked my stomach for almost two weeks after I left.

If I can give one or two recommendations for your first trip to China it would be to go to the touristy cities before you opt for the road less traveled: Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing- you’ll have the best experience there because there’s an infrastructure in place to accommodate English speaking tourists.

Also, remember these places become gray and dull in winter so plan your trip during the spring or summer months. Lessons learned.

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Drawing Comparisons China vs. the United States

Learning about Chinese politics and social standards was a culture shock. I had a hard time accepting the lack of free will given to the Chinese people. In my (very American) opinion, a government that does not have freedom of information and expression is not sustainable and shouldn’t be supported.

For example, the Chinese government recently banned all rap music from the country because it does not agree with socialist core values. I have never been somewhere that regulates what people consume so heavily.

There is no public access Google, Gmail, Instagram, Facebook etc.. The government employs over a million people to constantly scrub the internet which means the 1.4 billion people living in China are completely isolated from the world beyond what their government chooses to tell them.

However much I disagree with the way the country is controlled, who am I to judge? I’m in no place to pass judgement on other people’s way of life.

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On the bright side, socialism keeps Chinese people safer than most countries in the world. In 2017 there were only 50 or so cases of gun violence, contributing to China having one of the lowest murder rates per capita in the world. This is astonishing considering there was nearly 300 mass shootings in the US in 2017 and China has more than 4 times the population.

Fun fact: There are security cameras everywhere in China, literally. Someone told me that the government can locate anyone in the country through facial recognition within 20 minutes.

I told my guide in Chengdu about why I’m traveling in China (to break the world record). His response was unexpected and beyond humbling.

He began to tell me about his 11 year old daughter. She’s in the 5th grade and stays up until 10:30 pm every night studying for her exams. In China, not all students get to go to high school. Only students that went to a very good middle school even have a chance of going to high school, let alone college.

The competition couldn’t be more intense and it starts for Chinese children when they are only 10 years old. Access to education is something students in the US, including myself, take for granted.

He finished his story solemnly, “What you are doing my daughter and other children here could never even dream of doing this. You’re very lucky…”

Kung Fu: Philosophical Art of Self Defense - Chinese Martial Arts

One aspect that surpassed any exceptions was the classical Kung Fu show at the Red Theatre in Beijing. This was by far the highlight of my trip in China.

I had never watched Kung Fu before and knew practically nothing of its philosophy and technique.

When the lights dimmed I was instantly captivated by the actors and the deep meaning portrayed in the story. Click here to learn about the Taoism Philosophy in Chinese Kung Fu and how it had a profound influence on Chinese culture and martial arts.

Catch ya later, China - My Lasting Impressions 

Regardless of the difficulties I faced during this trip, I am constantly encountering people with a beautiful outlook on life.

My guide in Beijing told me I’m in the “flower age”: a time to pursue the things that you love before you are tied to your husband, your children and your home.

She believed every girl should have time to do what you love before you have these commitments and that she will support her daughter in whatever she chooses to do during this time of her life.

I feel immensely privileged to have seen this much of the world and it has become my goal to always show the beauty of nations otherwise negatively perceived.

Our minds are capable of comprehending the complexity of all the issues in the world. Nothing is one sided, especially when it comes to our human experience.

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We must push away from our prejudices and come to accept the things we don’t understand. Through these stories and realizations I hope we can move towards a more open minded, interconnected world. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

Thank you Country #111 for showing me how much more I have to learn.

Funeral Crashing in Nepal

Travel in Nepal

Life changing experiences come when you least expect. I had just arrived in Kathmandu after a long flight and I was exhausted. I came to the city with very little expectations and slight bitterness because I didn’t have as much time here as I had wished.

I have always felt a calling in my soul to come to Nepal, something about this country felt mysterious and I was eager absorb as much as possible. I was met by a man with my name on a sign outside the airport. He placed me in a car that whisked me off to Thamel, the heart of the city. Headphones blaring, I watched eagerly out the window as this new world passed me by.

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Chaotic traffic flowed gracefully around pedestrians crossing at random, cars and minibuses and bikes weaved effortlessly despite the lack of lane lines. Drivers knowingly avoided rickshaws that ran every red light without thinking twice.

Every inch of this place was alive and coated in a charismatic layer of brownish dust that is so prevalent it can be seen from the sky. People were talking, rushing, hustling their goods.

I arrived at the Oasis Kathmandu Hotel and the place immediately felt like a home away from home.

The staff was so accommodating; within minutes I had been checked into my room, ordered a hot meal and was sipping a proper latte (which has been so rare these days).

After telling the manager I was short on time and wanted to see as much as possible, he arranged an English speaking guide and driver to pick me up within the hour. I highly recommend private tours with a local guide, especially when you’re not in the city for a long time.

It is more expensive but its so worth it. The personalized ability to choose where you want to go, how long you want to stay there and to be able to ask every question to a local is priceless.

The first stop of the trip was to a temple that I have been dying to see for myself ever since I began taking photographs: the iconic Swayambhunath Temple. 

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We walked up the cobble steps to the top of the mountain, dodging many particularly diseased looking monkeys. As I turned the corner, the air became thick with incense and an ominous tape playing a deep chant filled my ears.

The stupa towered over the mountain and the sight of it wiped away all traces of jet lag. The golden stupa adorned with the eyes of Lord Buddha, prayer flags blowing enchantingly in the gusts of wind. I stopped and consciously absorbed what it felt like to be in this moment.

To feel the ancient ground beneath my feet, to engrain this place into my memory amidst the whirl of tourists and merchants and monks. I walked clockwise around the stupa twice, turning each prayer wheel as I passed. After truly appreciating the scene for what it was, I went on a photo frenzy attempting to capture what it felt like to be here.

The day continued to present beautiful sights one after another, from Durbar Square to hidden temples to shops filled with curios fit for Indiana Jones himself. It wasn’t until my guide asked if I would like to see the “night festival” that my experience took an unexpected turn.

He was very nonchalant about it so I didn’t think much of it assuming it would be a night market or a touristy traditional dance.

You know what they say when you make assumptions…

It was dark by the time we reached the banks of the sacred river Bagmati which was stagnant and blackened from pollution. I could see billows of smoke across the water as figures appeared to be flipping boards of burning embers into the river.

Even once we joined the crowd that had gathered around the river I still didn’t understand what I was seeing, until I spotted the shrouded bodies laid out on the steps below.

It didn’t take long to realize I was now attending a Hindu funeral.

The ceremony draws in crowds of people every night to dance, sing and spectate. It’s a normal part of everyday life here; I didn’t see anyone sobbing or commemorating their loved ones individually.

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There were 10 or more platforms on which the cremators build wooden pyres. They place the bodies on the pyres draped in garlands of orange flowers before igniting the shroud. T

he formation of the cremation ghats allow the ashes to be washed away by the river. Its worth mentioning that the cremators who tend to the fires work tirelessly throughout the day and night everyday, very closely stirring the ashes without masks to filter the smoke.

Pashupatinath was a powerful place to contemplate mortality. This funeral practice felt very foreign and oddly casual but its familiar in the way that all of us have to come to terms with the deaths of the ones we love eventually.

I had never seen a cremation before and I had no time to mentally prepare for the graphic reality of it.

My imagination ran wild in my dreams that night. In between the wreaths of ceremonial orange marigolds I could see the flames engulf my body.

I didn’t feel pain as I watched as my muscles, intestines, bones and everything that I am composed of fade away. I looked down at my fingertips to see them crumble into ash.

I was no longer a physical being but a consciousness becoming one with the air. A man stirred my fire until the remains of what once was mine floated up in embers and became nothing.

A word that comes to mind when I think about this experience: confronting. I realized how vastly my cultural norms effected the way I felt when witnessing something different than anything I’ve seen before.

Funeral traditions are deeply ingrained in our cultures. An average funeral in the US goes something like this: Everyone arrives to a church in all black.

They take their seats in the pews to listen to a ceremony of prayers and share memories and tears together. Then they go to a graveyard and solemnly watch the casket lowered into the ground.

Afterwards everyone gathers at home surrounded by loved ones to console the immediate family and commemorate the life of the deceased.

The social norms I have unconsciously constructed surrounding death, both in the way of dealing with people I love passing and dying myself, has been uprooted.

If the Hindu people can gather and watch bodies burn and dance and chant in the smoke without breaking down or acting morbid why should I feel so scared of death? While looking on at the festival, my Hindu guide said, “If all goes to plan, this is exactly where I will go when I die”.

The Nepali people seem so much more open to conversations about death than my people in the US. The pyres in Pashupatinath have seen more death than is comprehendible.  

Apparently fires raged here nonstop throughout the day and night after the earthquake in 2015 as hundreds of families mourned their loses from the disaster…

Mount Everest - Mountain Flight 

I felt immense guilt traveling to the country I’ve always dreamed of without making the legendary trek to Everest Base Camp. Short on both money and time, I have resolved that I will be back one day to check that off my bucket list.

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My final experience in Nepal was a flight to see the infamous Mount Everest. If I wasn’t able to trek on this trip, I had to at least lay my eyes on the tallest mountain in the world.

I booked the mountain flight one day in advance with Buddha Airlines. Keep in mind this was in January/February so availability may vary and you might want to consider booking ahead of time. Flights start everyday at 6 am, everyone is guaranteed a window seat and they fly about 20 miles away from the summit.

The fare is around $200USD and is worth every penny. I chose to go on the earliest flight possible (arriving at the airport at 5 am) because I was leaving the country the same day and didn’t want to risk missing my flight.

Thankfully my international flight wasn’t until the late afternoon because the mountain flight was delayed over 5 1/2 hours due to weather conditions.

This is apparently very common in the winter months. Waiting patiently in the freezing steel chairs of the domestic terminal with no wifi I reached new levels of exhaustion and boredom.

I watched the terminal slowly fill with tourists sporting their new knockoff Northface gear and shiny hiking boots. Finally the fog lifted and we were cleared for takeoff.

Winter in the Himalayas - Climate Change Awareness

I visited Nepal in the middle of winter (end of January, beginning of February). Since I was coming from South East Asia, I anticipated the coldest weather transition possible but this was not what I found in Kathmandu… It was sunny and 75°F (24°C) all day with no storms on the forecast for the upcoming month. I traveled throughout Asia during the rainy season and didn’t use my rain jacket once.

I didn’t think much of this until the mountain flight. As you can see in these photos, there was only light, dirty layers of snow on the mountaintops.

To all the climate change skeptics out there: Take a look at the tallest mountain range in the world during the winter of 2017-18. Where’s the snow? You can’t see these mountains and not ask this question. There is a serious problem arising when the tallest mountains in the world aren’t covered in snow during the winter. 

The face of Everest is bare this year and we should all be more concerned about it. Our world’s temperatures are changing at a rapid rate and learning about the causes of these problems and their impacts on both the environment and the millions of people that live here is the first step to finding a solution. 

Click here to learn more about climate change in the Himalayas and what is being done to fight it.

I feel immensely privileged to have seen this much of the world and it has become my goal to always show the beauty of nations otherwise negatively perceived.

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Our minds are capable of comprehending the complexity of all the issues in the world. Nothing is one sided, especially when it comes to our humanity and our fight to protect the environment. It isn’t too late if we don’t give up.

We must push away from the things we don’t understand by educating ourselves.

Through these stories and realizations I hope we can move towards a more conscious, interconnected world. ⠀⠀⠀⠀

Hot Springs 101

Tips for a “hot springs experience”

Human beings have been soaking in hot springs long before history began to be recorded. Archaeological evidence shows people have been using mineral water to treat disease for over 5000 years.

From the ancient Greek and Romans to traditional Japanese rituals, from Middle Eastern ceremonies to fashionable European bath houses. The attraction to thermal waters is one of the truly universal human behaviors.

In the Americas, it was the native Americans who deemed hot springs a sacred place for healing. Despite the exploitation of these places during the colonization of the US, people can still soak in the same hot springs today.

There are more than 17,000 hot springs in the US alone and the majority are found in the West. Only 115 have been developed into resorts or spas.

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Geology - Thermal Systems Simplified 

To explain this in the most basic way possible, heat exists below the crust of the earth because there are decaying natural elements in the core.

Hot springs form where that heat has the opportunity to escape to the surface through cracks in the Earth’s plates. However, there are many hot springs that exist for unexplainable reasons.

Water inevitably fills every crack in the Earth’s surface. When that water comes in close proximity to a source of intense heat, the water warms and rises (convection). I

t cools down slightly along the way to the surface. This is the reason why there’s a temperature range from pool to pool. Always locate the source of the heat and test the water before getting in to avoid serious burns!

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Microbes - Living Pools

Hot springs are teeming with life. Scientists have discovered unique microorganisms living specifically in hot springs in the western United States.

These microbes thrive in the thermal water despite lack of sunlight and/or oxygen. The existence of these organisms contradicts the general requirements for life on Earth.

If an organism can survive without being dependent on water, sunlight, oxygen and organic carbon simultaneously, the possibility of life on other planets increases exponentially.

Basically, microorganisms found in hot springs are one of the most significant scientific phenomenons on our planet.

Important information: 

Don’t submerge your entire head underwater in a hot spring. In worst case scenarios people have died in California from contracting rare microbes through their mucus membranes (eyes, nose, mouth) directly from hot spring water.

This topic has been debated but its not worth the risk. Also, hot springs can be very grimy places filled with skin cells, sweat, urine and everything else you can imagine that is unsanitary so just don’t put your face in it.

Parents watch your children! Don’t let them go underwater or disrupt the environment.

Etiquette - PRACTICE COMMON SENSE 

Surprisingly enough using common sense is not so common. People come to hot springs in search of peace and healing so always keep that in mind. Understanding etiquette cannot be reiterated enough.

Many people do not share information about hot springs because ignorant people will go to these sacred places and disrespect them.

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People come to hot springs to party and they leave behind trash, physically destroy the pools and pollute the water. They are ruining places that have been used for thousands of years simply because they can’t respect the environment.

Please do not be one of those people.

I will certainly receive ridicule from others in the outdoor community for writing this blog. I am writing it anyway because the experiences I’ve had with hot springs are some of the most incredible moments of my life.

I never felt so connected with the natural world until I soaked in a hot spring alone in the wilderness. In my opinion, these thermal areas are the most beautiful and enjoyable places in the world and every human being deserves to experience it for themselves.

Disclaimer: Do not be surprised to find a variety of naked people when visiting the pools, the concept of soaking in hot springs is rooted in nature. Some people enjoy these places in their most natural state. Remember this when you’re bringing young children.

I won’t give away all the secrets. I can’t explain how many hours of research, driving with the wrong GPS coordinates, and being completely lost lead me to finding these places.

A huge part of what makes hot springs so amazing is that you have to put in genuine effort to find them (in most cases).

You earn the right to soak your bones. Here’s a few names of my favorite hot springs and thermal areas to point you in the right direction:

California, Nevada and Oregon - Classic Hot Springs

Nevada has the most hot springs of any one state followed closely by California.

Many hot springs in Nevada don’t have pools but the ones that do are considered some of the most pristine in the world.

For an explicit guide to Nevada’s hidden treasures click here.

A few hot springs can be found in Southern California but the vast majority lie in the north. The first hot spring I ever visited was a small resort called Sierraville Hot Springs.

Visiting hot springs is always easiest when you go with someone who has already been there. Don’t be too surprised if you don’t find what you’re looking for the first time you go.

Most of the time they are located in areas that have no cellphone reception so keep this in mind. My top 5 hot springs in California are the Feather River hot springs, Big Bend, Buckeye, Wild Willy’s, and Travertine.

The best area for hot spring hopping is along California’s highway 395 in Mammoth Lakes; specifically between Bridgeport and Bishop.

There are a solid number of pools to make for the perfect weekend trip. This place forms a fishbowl- the hot springs are in the middle of a vast valley surrounded by (sometimes snowy) mountains.

This place is the remains of a collapsed volcano (caldera) that erupted 76,000 years ago. This volcanic activity is responsible for all these amazing hot springs in one place!

Don’t forget to stop at Mono Lake’s Tufa Towers if you’re in the area. It’s an otherworldly experience!

Oregon has some of the most beautiful hot springs in the US but I have the least amount of experience in this area so click here for a more reliable source of information.

International Hot Springs - A World of Limitless Possibilities 

One of the first things I look into when I travel somewhere new is if there are any hot springs in the area. You never know what you might find! This has lead me to the most unexpected places in the Caribbean, Africa and more.

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There are mainly bathhouses in Europe, particularly in Budapest, Hungary which is also called “The City of Baths”. I visited Széchenyi Thermal Baths and highly recommend it.

It was a great place to spend the day and experience European bath culture.

In Central America, there are many noteworthy springs to visit. When I traveled to Guatemala I made it a priority to see Finca El Pariso (Cascadas Caliente).

This place was so unique because you could feel the heat from the hot spring waterfall from across the river. When you dive into the river and swim to the waterfall you’ll find a hidden cave underneath the waterfall if you know where to look.

To find out exactly how to get here go to the Guatemala section of my Central America Travel Guide. You can also find details about volcanic crater lakes in El Salvador and hot spring resorts in Costa Rica in that travel guide.

In all my experiences nothing compares to the hot springs you’ll find in Iceland. The landscapes and pools are by far the most amazing in the world as far as unique hot springs. For a full write up of all hot springs and geysers I visited in Iceland and how to get there check out my blog Icelandic Road Trip.

Special Thanks To Talon Cook - The man who introduced hot springs to my life

Talon has done so much to greatly improve my quality of life, one of the most impactful being that he took me to my first hot spring.

He taught me everything I know about hot springs and the natural world in general. Talon makes getting outside the most exciting part of life because his passion for exploring is contagious.

This guy could live outside for the rest of his life and he would probably be more comfortable doing so.

His life story is one of the most unique I’ve ever heard; so in an attempt to give it the credit he deserves I want to share it:

Talon was raised in a place you’ve never heard of called Camptonville, CA which is an hour drive into the mountainous middle of nowhere.

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His mom is a genuine old school hippie who bought a piece of raw land in Tahoe National Forest and built a log cabin from scratch.

They lost their father when Talon was just a baby but this incredibly strong woman chose to raise her 3 kids on her own without modern conveniences.

They were completely isolated down a dirt road without cellphone service, electricity or running water. To say this style of living was hardcore would be an understatement but Talon’s mom would probably disagree because she’s so humble.

They didn’t have much but they had more love in their little home than 10 modern families combined.

Growing up he literally spent all day, every day outside adventuring and connecting with nature. Learning everything there is to know about California is what he’s always been most passionate about which is why he became a wildlife biologist.

Living off the grid is at the core of who he is and it made him into the incredibly interesting person that he is today.

One of our first dates was to a hot spring in Sierraville and after that experience I was absolutely hooked. Countless 1000 mile road trips and years of international travel later, we’ve seen some of the most epic places on the planet together.

He has engrained in me an unmistakeable love for nature and a true appreciation of its beauty. I couldn’t be more grateful for this because it changed my entire outlook on life.

He taught me to see the world through his eyes and my life has been filled with vivid color and light ever since.

An American in Bangladesh

My travels in Bangladesh

After a few incredible days of exploring Myanmar, it was to time depart from the capital city of Yangon.

The flight was bound for Bangladesh, a place I never imagined I would be going.

I was boarding the plane when a man behind me asked “You are going to Bangladesh??”

I answered yes and he looked surprised.

With a grin he said “Oh well, welcome to my country!” Once I was seated on the plane I glanced around at the fellow passengers to find it was about 90% middle aged men.

I gulped down hefty cup of complimentary straight whiskey and watched out the window as the sun set over the countryside; endless rivers snaked through reflective fields of rice.

It was around 10 pm when we began our descent into Dhaka, one of the most densely populated cities on the planet. Looking over the city from the night sky was not what I anticipated.

The dotted lights were sparse… There were as many lights as you would expect to see from a small city accompanied by massive streams of headlights.

Acquiring a visa-upon-arrival in Bangladesh as a US citizen was just as straightforward as anywhere else in the world. I don’t know why I thought it might be more complicated, this mindset was probably because I was a little intimidated to be traveling to this country in the first place.

The process only took 20 minutes and the fee was $51 USD. Once I got out of immigration, my hotel arranged for someone to meet me with a sign. He escorted me through the airport to the driver that would take me to my hotel. While waiting for the transfer I saw a very unique rickshaws with intricate body paint and metal cages with locks fashioned around the doors.

There was also a thick metal barricade with dozens of men peaking their faces through to get a look at the arriving passengers. I was not left alone for one minute since I left customs.

Once arriving at the Best Western Dhaka I was welcomed outside by a fleet of security guards packing AK 47s. You know you’re somewhere risky when you have to walk through a metal detector and X-ray your bags before entering the lobby of a western hotel.

The other guests in the hotel were corporate business men and women. A German man sparked up a conversation and told me a drive that would normally take only 15 minutes would take over two hours here.

He also said that they have to be back at the hotel by 4 pm every day before it gets dark. No one leaves the hotel once it gets dark.

The city of Dhaka officially has the worst traffic of any Asian country. There are days where traffic is at a stand still for 7 hours.

The traffic is so influential that it cuts into the overall productivity of the country because of how many working hours are wasted. The country is one of the most crowed places on Earth.

Here’s some fast facts:

• More than half of the population in Bangladesh are farmers.

• Over 30% of the population live below the poverty line of $2 USD per day.

• The national animal is the Bengal Tiger which is quickly going extinct.

• The country has one of the most extensive garment industries in the world.

• There are more than 2,000 periodicals and daily newspapers published in Bangladesh. However, the country’s average constant readership is only 15%.

• Bangladesh is home to the world’s largest river delta and the world’s largest mangrove.

When the time came to return to the airport, we passed through multiple security checkpoints and swerved around barriers that were in place so no one could drive straight into the departures building. When we were dropped off at the curb I immediately noticed the military presence.

There were many officers standing around with sawed off shot guns and compact machine guns slung over their shoulders. This place is no joke; which is completely warranted because of ISIS’s open threats of attacking the Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport with the intention of killing foreigners.

From checking in at the counter to sitting in my seat on the plane I went through 5 different security checks. Women were patted down in little private rooms with curtains rather than in public. I’ve never had security specifically rummage through every part of my baggage, leaving no shirt unturned.

To say they were thorough would be an understatement. I found comfort in their paranoia because there is absolutely no way you could smuggle something onto that plane.

I met a young man at the airport who was born in Dhaka. We ended up traveling to the same destination so we had a few hours to get to know each other.

It was his first time on an airplane and his nervousness was adorable. We had a lot in common, watched the same TV shows and laughed at the same jokes. He told me that he will be getting married at the end of the year to a woman he has never met. I didn’t realize that arranged marriages are still a reality for many people and its such an influential part of their culture.

He didn’t seem very enthusiastic about it and went on to talk all about how unrealistic online dating is because you can’t be affectionate with the person in the way you would be naturally. This conversation made me realize how lucky I am to have the freedom to choose who I want to spend the rest of my life with.

Now I have a deeper appreciation for the privilege to date/marry for love rather than economic and societal gains.

Regardless of the intimidating aspects of this country, I was treated with nothing but respect and kindness by every person I encountered during my time there.

They take proper security precautions because they want to keep everyone safe. The Bangladeshi people spoke better English than most other Asian countries I’ve traveled to.

Their eyes and smiles radiated genuine friendliness and they simply wanted to know more about me. My new friend reminded me how easy it is to make friends anywhere in the world if you live with an open mind.

Nothing will make you more grateful (and aware) of what you have than seeing life through the eyes of another.

This is my favorite photo of Bangladeshi women taken by the talented Simon Urwin.

For an incredibly stunning photo set click here.

Confessions of a Chronic Traveler

This is an honest glimpse into my most intimate thoughts and feelings.

Beautiful photos capture only a fraction of the profound experiences I’ve had during my time spent far from home. In an attempt to scratch the surface, I’ll admit that sometimes traveling gives me anxiety.

I get scared being alone and I want to cry for no tangible reason. I want to go home and hide under the covers in my own bed. I miss having a boyfriend, even if it’s just a false sense of security.

I miss going on dates to my favorite restaurants. I’ve begun to crave affection in ways that have made me realize how essential it is to living a happy life. I miss my dog. I’m afraid my family is growing old and I’m missing that.

I feel like my friends will soon forget who I am. I don’t remember birthdays, I miss parties and concerts, I’m the worst at returning texts. I’m always gone and when I’m around, you might not even notice I’m there.

For all these reasons and more, I’m so grateful for all the people that fall into my life and decide to stick around. As life changes so do our connections and I know how easy it is to abandon friendships as a causalty to life.

Despite my best efforts to float away, some people remain a constant. Their presence in my life means more to me than they will ever understand.

Fear can be overwhelming and paralyzing at times. To be as cliche as possible: just breathe and don’t cry; if you have to – make it brief. Be brave.

The most rewarding moments in life require courage. There’s so much beauty in this world if we let ourselves see it. Life is a montage of fleeting moments; don’t waste it on things that aren’t important to you.

Tell yourself there is nothing to be afraid of because what is meant to be, will be. If it’s your time to go then be grateful you get to experience new places, people and emotions before you cross your finish line. Love harder, be present and pursue your dreams relentlessly.

They will only come true when you learn to value them more than your comfort zone.

When you travel and create content on your own, there’s no one to blame and no one to motivate you. It’s just me and the camera and my backpack which has no room for excuses.

That itself is enough to scare most people off but holding all of that before me, I strap on the big girl boots and get on the plane.

“What if everything goes wrong and you don’t know what to do?!”

Do it anyway.

“But what if you fail?”

An arrow never shot never flies. Do it anyway.

I can overthink every detail until I start to drown inside my mind or I can let go of the anchor and start to swim. Its only natural to be scared. Do it scared.

The moment we do, we discover how many monsters were shadows and we find out chasing dreams and tackling fears are much more manageable tasks.

When you see people traveling and it looks like a perfect experience, remember that perfection is an optical illusion.

Travel isn’t meant to be comfortable, the destination is the reward but the journey is what makes you a better, stronger person. There is so much more to the story than what you see on the surface.

Personally, I’ve noticed after the first month travel high wears off there’s a solid week or two where I begin to drag my feet. My brain’s ability to process information and accomplish complicated tasks slows to a crawl. I become so tired of being tired.

Even on the days that I get to sleep past sunrise I wake up exhausted. I’m still looking for a cure, espresso isn’t cutting it anymore.

Pro tip: Don’t take the healthy days for granted, you’ll miss them when they’re gone.

I’ve gotten used to being the only person in a crowd that looks like me. I’m also getting used to the way people uncomfortably stare for extended periods of time because of this.

Sometimes I wonder if I got hurt how long would it take to reach a hospital. Usually if I’m asking myself this, the answer is too long to make a difference.

I cringe to think back on all the public bathrooms I’ve had no choice but to enter with a held breath and watering eyes. I don’t think the distinct feeling of vulnerability during turbulence ever really goes away.

Sometimes I imagine returning home to my domestic reality after these long absences. I can almost feel my fingers running over my vinyl collection and flipping through the pages of my old books.

The soft (bedbug free) sheets on my bed, the way the light filters in through my skylight in the morning.

Dust coats every inch of my belongings. Its weird coming back to the place I’ve called home for my whole life but haven’t physically spent time at recently.

Home is so much more than a physical place but my god, the conveniences… My shower. My car. My reliable internet connection.

One of the things I’ve truly become grateful for is my closet full of clothes. At least choosing an outfit in the morning here isn’t a hard decision, it’s just the cleanest variation of the same 3 outfits I’ve been wearing for two months straight.

Same nasty hiking boots I wear everyday. You never realize how incredibly convenient having a refrigerator is until you haven’t had access to one in a long time.

I literally crave going to the grocery store, planning my meals for the week and being able to store fresh food in a clean place. It’s the simple things that I miss the most.

I think about how comfortable I could be right now instead of being crammed on a sweaty bus for hours down a dirt road with 10 people that don’t speak a word of English.

I constantly question myself, my intentions, my choices. What have I done? I just spent every dollar I’ve ever made chasing a dream that terrifies me. I could have lived an easy, carefree life in California for an entire year with the money I spent on this trip.

I literally have no idea what is going to happen next. This is where faith steps in; faith in the path that hasn’t presented itself yet.

However, faith will only carry me so far. Nothing and no one but hard work and myself will take me to where I want to go. I am scared for the hardships that lay ahead and I’m already grateful for the lessons they will teach me.

In these moments of doubt and uncertainty, I remind myself where I came from, why I am here and where I am going.

Every morning I wake up and set the intention.

I repeat my affirmations:

I can accomplish anything I set my mind to

I’m playing my part in the global scheme

Do what I love & money will follow

I will not waste this privilege

Express gratitude daily

Manifest relentlessly

My work has value

Radiate positivity

I am supported

Let go of fear

I am worthy

Be present

Persist

Enjoy

Ukraine: My Chernobyl Diary

Chernobyl Diary - The World’s Worst Nuclear Disaster

Reactor number four of the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant begins overheating steam.

A surge of power during a reactor system test is caused by a series of mistakes made by inadequately trained personnel. Flames engulf the reactor, radiation leaks triggering a massive explosion of radioactive debris into the atmosphere.

The explosion rains poisonous ash; silently covering every inch of land with harmful radiation which will eventually be carried by the wind through borders across Europe.

The worst nuclear disaster in history had just taken place while thousands of men, women and children were fast asleep in the eye of a nuclear storm.

At the time of the accident Ukraine was a part of the Soviet Union. The original dream was to build the biggest nuclear power plant in the world.

There where thousands of families living and working in the surrounding area. The accident was caused by a severely flawed reactor design and coincidental human error.

More than 30 years later, I found myself at the security checkpoint of the exclusion zone in Chernobyl, Ukraine.

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The officers filed paperwork, studied my passport and rummaged through my backpack. The time had come to place my own eyes on the aftermath of the historic catastrophe.

I asked a myself more than once what I was doing in such a strange, “risky” place. After passing the compulsory radiation test I can say for certain what I experienced here was worth the risk and the lasting impressions are so much more than I had anticipated.

Radiation Demystified - What is it and what does it do? 

Radioactive materials are comparable to dust, after the explosion a deadly dust cloud coated everything surrounding the area. Imagine how difficult it would be to ‘safely’ clean dust off of literally everything outside.

This is why there are only sanitized roads and walkways through the exclusion zone, if you were to step away from the path you would be contaminated. Hundreds of millions of dollars were spent on improving the conditions at Chernobyl.

Radiation does not simply go away, the area will not be completely safe for minimally thousands of years.

The reported health impacts of the disaster vary greatly from source to source. Many people believe, including my Ukrainian guide, that the fatalities were relatively limited apart from the first responders and plant operators.

Some sources say more than 100 people were diagnosed with acute radiation syndrome and many of those people died within weeks of the accident. Acute radiation syndrome (radiation sickness) is caused by a high dose of radiation exposed to an unprotected body.

The symptoms are fatigue, fever, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, comas most likely resulting in death. An increase of childhood thyroid cancers have also correlated with the accident.

Something my guide Igor said lingered in my thoughts, “The first firefighters who came to Chernobyl disaster didn’t know about the radiation and had no special equipment.

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They died in agonizing pain within days. They are all regarded as national heroes of Ukraine” Igor then said, “It’s easy to become a national hero if you don’t know what you’re doing.”

Two people died immediately from the impact of the explosion, their bodies never recovered. Dozens more firefighters died within a few days or weeks after exposure. The total number of fatalities is unknown. It is impossible to quantify whether the people who were exposed to the radiation eventually died years later due to natural causes or if it was directly related to the exposure.

This is one of the only accidents in the history of commercial nuclear power to cause fatalities. Almost all of Europe was affected with varying levels of contamination; large areas of Belarus, Ukraine and Russia being the most severely affected. Disaster knows no borders.

Vast areas of the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone are still very dangerous and will be for the rest of the foreseeable future. However, many people are still working in and around the Chernobyl power plant today because the radiation levels have stabilized.

Chernobyl Today and Tour Information My personal experience in the exclusion zone 

Chernobyl is an active working site, even within the exclusion zone. Chernobyl reactor number four is now enclosed in a large concrete shelter or sarcophagus.

Thousands of people work with the remaining reactors, decommissioning and providing security. The authorities aren’t enthusiastic about the tourism industry taking interest in Chernobyl but they have allowed day passes/overnight visits since the late 2000’s.

To visit Pripyat you must enter the 30 km exclusion zone. This must be arranged ahead of time through a tour operator based in Kiev which is only a few hours away.

I had no idea what I was getting myself into when I decided to go to Chernobyl but its significance and photographic intrigue proposed an offer I couldn’t refuse.

I am so glad that I decided to go somewhere so out of the ordinary, I will never forget the things I saw in Pripyat. Every moment a tourist is in the exclusion zone is preplanned and kept to a strict schedule so there is no wandering around without supervision from a licensed guide. 

The environment felt very regimented but I didn’t feel intimidated, it was more of a sense of genuine isolation. The landscape was lush and green with forests of tall trees and rolling hills. Nature has begun to consume the buildings and hundreds of homes are vanishing beneath the brush.

I did not see one other tourist the entire time I was there. This was the most bizarre place I have ever experienced alone.

The ghost city of Pripyat was once home to thousands of families of the men and women who worked at the power plant. Every person in the town was evacuated within days.

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It was difficult for the government to admit to the people the extent of the total meltdown. During this time people had also been taught to not ask questions and to do what they are told. They were told to leave everything behind after being reassured they would soon be back to recollect their belongings from their homes.

They had no idea it would be months until they were allowed to return and salvage what was left of their lives. This resulted in what you see here today, a post apocalyptic scene where everything was left behind in a hurry. Being in Pripyat felt like stepping into the memories of the people that used to live here.

There are people (resettlers) who returned to Chernobyl to live and die because it is where they were born. The authorities didn’t allow them here but they relentlessly kept returning to their homes. Only retired people older than 55 were allowed to return.

They ended up living long lives without pollution from cars, they grew their own food and enjoyed life in solitude. Children under 18 years old are not allowed past the checkpoint.

Lasting Impressions

They say the design of reactor number four was unique and thus somewhat irrelevant to the rest of the nuclear industry in regards to an incident happening again. There are many conspiracy theories regarding the cause of the disaster. It is thought that the accident was a consequence of Cold War isolation and a lack of safety culture.

Some question the United States’ involvement, maybe the disaster was intended to provoke the fall of the Soviet Union. I myself doubt the truth of these theories considering how the catastrophe affected other nations irrelevant to the political situation at the time.

I personally believe this accident was caused by human error but it would not be surprising if it was an act of war.

People can be so unimaginably cruel when they are consumed by warped understandings of morality.

Regardless of the cause of this accident, it is a testimony to the destructive nature of human beings. We will never know exactly how many people died as a result of the Chernobyl disaster.

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We are merely children playing with matches and a gas can, expecting it not to blow up in our faces yet it is so easy to make mistakes. The scene at Pripyat left grim thoughts in my mind and provoked existential questions, how long until the entire planet will look like this? Pripyat is what modern life looks like after only 30 years of abandonment.

One day, most likely sooner than later, only nature will remain. Eventually every place and everything we have ever known will disappear just like this.

A chaotic, crumbling world left behind in a hurry, slipping seamlessly into oblivion only to remain buried deep in the recesses of our memories.

For an accurate, chillingly detailed timeline of the exact events surrounding the Chernobyl nuclear disaster, click here.

Central America Travel Guide

Traveling in Central America

The lush jungles and soaring volcanic peaks connecting the Americas are contained only by the warm shores of the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea.

Central America is waking up to the sounds of howler monkeys and toucans. It’s fresh fruit juice dripping down your face, it’s becoming tangled in forest roots and unwinding in a secluded villa on the beach.

Soak in thermal springs and let the mineral water wash away the physical pain and stress of the life you left behind when you decided to leave home. Embrace the humidity. Ignore the scary big spiders and questionable public bathrooms. Let the wild, untamed nature of this developing world flood your senses.

If you’ve been looking for a tropical getaway that won’t break the bank, you’ve come to the right place.

Guatemala - Land of Eternal Spring 

If you want to see the natural wonders hidden deep in Guatemala it is essential to have a car. Chicken buses are popular here but they are time consuming and uncomfortable. Choose a rental with reasonably high clearance due to the rough road conditions in some areas.

Poor quality of the roads coupled with impatient, inexperienced drivers makes for a difficult driving atmosphere at times so be prepared with a capable driver. The roads weren’t as bad as their reputation but expect pot holes and speed bumps on highways without any warning.

There are sections of roads that locals will tell you is unsafe for one reason or another. Always ask local people what they think of the route you are taking and heed their advice.

Eat: San Martin Restaurant in Guatemala City was some of the best food we had in the country.

To Semuc Champey:
Coban is a 4 hour drive out of Guatemala City. Semuc Champey is around a 2 hour and 45 minute drive from Coban.

Depending on when you arrived into Guatemala City you can stay at a hotel in Coban or continue another 2 hours to Lanquin (45 minutes of dirt road after the right turn off the highway).

Coban is not an interesting town so there is no reason to stay there otherwise. The best place to stay in Lanquin is a hostel called El Retiro.

This hostel is situated next to the Cahabon river with picturesque hammocks lining the rooms. The hostel offers tours daily.

The locals will tell you that your car will not be capable of making the drive to Semuc Champey yourself because they want you to pay for the tour. However, it was possible in a Toyota RAV4 after a rainy morning.

Once you get to Semuc Champey pay a small fee and begin hiking either down to the river directly or up the mountain to the panoramic view point. The main swimming pools are only a 10 minute walk or less from the parking lot.

The entrance fee in 50 Quetzals each ($7 USD).
The main trail is about a 1.5 mile loop up and back down to the river.

We arrived around 4 pm and had the whole area to ourselves. After hiking down from the view point the trail emerges at the beginning of the limestone bridge. If you hop over the warning ropes to the left you can look over the edge into the cave/tunnel that the majority of the raging river flows beneath.

Seeing this section of Semuc Champey will create a much better understanding of how the limestone forms a literal bridge. Almost the entire river is flowing beneath your feet and out of sight.

The portion of above ground river carved large, cascading turquoise pools of crystal clear waters. Look downstream to take in the surreal views of infinity pools cradled by canyon walls.
When to go: visit in the late afternoon to have Semuc Champey all to yourself.

Continuing north from Lanquin is not advised especially at night due to security problems (robbery). To avoid any trouble drive back to Coban to continue to the next destination. Sometimes taking the longer route is worth it to avoid any potential challenges in the middle of nowhere.

Actively use common sense to avoid any difficulties or dangerous situations. Always ask locals that speak English for advice about your plans because their opinions are so valuable.

After exploring Semuc Champey head from Coban past Chisec for 1.5 hours to the Candelaria Caves. This cave system is one of the largest in Central America and is located only a short walk off the road, it was worth visiting. A guide is recommended because the trail is confusing. The huge limestone cavern has two main entrances. The smaller rooms have large stalagmites and stalactites. The caves are a quick and beautiful stop on the way to Las Conchas National Park.

Las Conchas National Park

Las Conchas translates to “the snails” referring to the shells lining the shores of the river. Locals cook and eat the snails leaving behind their shells. Some refer to the park as a larger, not turquoise version of Semuc Champey. Beautiful wooden decks, walkways and an observation tower were constructed around the waterfalls.

The park is more developed than Semuc Champey with picnic tables and some facilities. Wander around the park and expect to be followed by an unnecessary “guide”.

There are many cascades leading to open pools but the water was too strong to swim in March. This was one of our favorite spots in Guatemala.

Rio Dulce: Gateway to Belize

After visiting Las Conchas, the city of Rio Dulce is the best option to find accommodation. The options are slightly limited but the “Backpackers Hotel” is reasonably priced and sits on the water of the largest lake/inlet in Guatemala.

When driving through Rio Dulce cross the large bridge and immediately turn left underneath the bridge to find the hotel. $17 USD for the dorm or $25 USD for a private room.

The dinner, breakfast and wifi at the hotel were good and we had a few harmless rats in our room to keep us company. This is a beautiful location to watch the sunrise.

Finca El Pariso (Cascadas Caliente)
This was my favorite part of the country. From Rio Dulce drive to El Estor and 12 km before you reach the town turn off the road to the right. You’ll see a small restaurant, continue to drive down a small dirt road along a creek to find a parking lot most likely harboring a tour bus or two. Once again, aim to visit the hot spring in the late afternoon to have the place to yourself. Walk only 5 minutes to find a staircase down to the river. You can feel the heat of the waterfall from across the river. Practice your backflips into the refreshing water and relax on the rocks. Tiny fish will nibble on your toes if you let them. Make sure to explore the underwater cave hidden beneath the waterfall. You can also hike upstream from the waterfall to find the source of the hot spring.

El Salvador - Volcanic Country

Traveling in El Salvador was very pleasant and I recommend it to anyone wanting to experience a more genuine part of Central America. There are a range of hotel and hostel prices in San Salvador, the country’s capital.

The city is not entirely unique to other cities but there are many natural wonders in the surrounding area making it a safe, central place to stay while taking day trips.

We had a once in a lifetime experience with a friendly local guide who showed us a unique side of El Salvador we didn’t expect but truly enjoyed.

Take a tour of the Cerro Verde National Park, one of El Salvador’s most stunning landscapes. There is a trio of volcanic peaks encircled by lush jungle and a network of hiking trails.

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The 2,381-meter summit of Santa Ana is the highest and most active volcano in the country. Summit the Santa Ana volcano for an otherworldly look at the bubbling green lake at the bottom of the crater. 

Enjoy the stunning views of Lake Coatepeque on the hike up the volcano as well as other volcanic peaks. Ask to bring a few beers to share at the top if you prefer.

El Tunco

This pro surfing spot on the pacific coast of El Salvador is a hidden gem of Central America. Spend a few days enjoying the culture and waves at any of the hotels or hostels in the area, this destination will surely not disappoint you! Hammocks and beach bums line the soft black sand shoreline.

This place had a young, vibrant energy with fresh food, good people and yoga classes available. Experience the best sunsets of your lifetime as the colors radiate over the over the glossy reflective sand.

This location provided incredible photographic opportunities. El Tunco is a short 45 minute drive from the city center of San Salvador.

Eat: Visit the restaurant inside the Real Intercontinental in San Salvador for the best handmade pizza you’ll find outside of Italy.

Nicaragua - Ometepe Island 

Situated on the largest lake in Central America lies an island with two towering volcanoes. This location is the most interesting place geographically so if you are only in Nicaragua for a short time I recommend visiting the island to get the most unique experience.

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Once arriving at the airport in Managua, find out ahead of time how much the taxi will cost before you talk to the taxi drivers. They will try to hustle you in the airport so walk across the street to other drivers (always check taxi licenses before getting in someone’s car) to save yourself money.

A taxi ride to Rivas (San Jorge) should cost no more than $45 USD which is very reasonable for a 2.5 hour drive. Depending on your budget and time constraints I recommend taking a taxi ride instead of a 5 hour indirect bus ride for only $3.

This is an example of whether to save money or be more efficient and convenient. In Rivas, stay at the Hotel Hamacas because of the convenient location down the street from the port. Hamacas also has a nice swimming pool and a good breakfast included.

Check the timetable for the ferry to Moyogalpa (the port on the island), they leave throughout the day. During the week ferries leave every 30 minutes from San Jorge.

The ferry takes around 1 hour to get to the island. Rent a motor bike to explore the island, driving is easy there because there aren’t many cars and its a genuinely fun part of the experience. Renting a moped for 48 hours should cost around $50 USD.  

At night giant cane toads cover the roads so be careful while dodging them as much as possible!

Ojo De Agua

This beautiful volcanic natural spring holds the softest water you’ll will ever swim in. The mineral rich water leaves your skin feeling angelic. The entrance fee is $3 USD and a coconut full of rum is only $2 USD. These reflective blue waters are mesmerizing. Not cold nor hot water makes this the perfect swimming hole to relax for an afternoon. This was my favorite place on Ometepe Island.

San Ramon Waterfall

If you’re driving a scooter the road to the waterfall is very difficult to navigate, some people will potentially give up before they get there. After a very bumpy ride its a 3 km hike to the waterfall. That 3 km felt a lot longer, the hike was not easy as it leads up the side of the mountain.

Advice: Use the green ATMs to convert money to Cordobas because the red ATMs will charge 10% fees.

Costa Rica - Pura Vida 

If you rent a car anywhere in Central America it should be in Costa Rica. There is so much to see and in order to do it at your own pace you should get a rental to have the time of your life. In comparison to rural Guatemala the road conditions in Costa Rica aren’t as bad but there are pot holes and dirt roads so a car with higher clearance is recommended.

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Day 1: Monteverde Cloud Forest
The drive to Monteverde from San Jose is around 2.5 hours. The hostel Cabinas Vista Al Golfo was a perfect place to stay with epic views overlooking the forest. Private rooms have large windows to see the panoramic views.

There are a few options but the Salvatura Cloud Forest Park was a perfect place to experience the hanging bridges. Mystical bridges carry you into the canopy of a rain forest as clouds speed by above head.

There are 11 hanging bridges and the ticket costs around $25 USD each. If you visit late in the day you can have all the bridges to yourself! The green, rustic bridges range in size and height giving a sense of variety.

Looking down into the canopy of the jungle is a surreal experience. The air is so fresh and the fast moving clouds live up to their reputation.

Huge, puffy clouds barrel overhead as you run and swing around on the bridges like children playing freely in nature. There is an ominous hum of insects and chimes of birds and frogs as the sun sets behind the mountains.

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The intense green colors of the forest stayed ingrained in my mind long after the sun went down, this place was something special.

Explore the small town of Monteverde, there is a tree house bar with a gigantic tree growing through the floor and a few great restaurants, stores and cafes worth visiting.

Day 2: La Fortuna
La Fortuna is one of the most touristy areas in Costa Rica for good reason, it’s genuinely magical.

The majestic Arenal Volcano watches over the hot springs, forests and waterfalls creating the feeling that everyone is searching for when they visit Central America: tropical paradise found.

There are many hot springs resorts which are expensive but if you’re looking for a relaxing, gorgeous and comfortable experience go to The Springs Resort and Spa. The perfect view of Arenal volcano greets you as you wade through perfect hot spring pools. There is also a wildlife refuge within the resort filled with exotic animals.

If you’re lucky glow bugs will appear in the trees at dusk. For a memorable experience with toucans, monkeys and cats its worth it to go here.

Tabacon Hot Springs Resort is the most expensive resort in the area but if you want to save some money and get a more authentic local experience; go downstream from the resort to soak in the undeveloped section of the hot spring river. This hot spring is creatively named Free Hot Spring.

La Fortuna Waterfall

This iconic waterfall below the Arenal Volcano is worth a visit if you enjoy waterfalls but expect the masses to be there also.

After paying a small fee you walk down very well paved steps all the way down to the falls. This hike is very accessible to those with limited abilities, around 471 steps down.

Day 3: Rio Celeste
This is one of my favorite waterfalls in the world. There is a $12 USD entrance fee and a fairly easy hike to a staircase that leads down to the waterfall.

The bright blue water is the most beautiful I’ve ever seen, you can’t believe it is real until you lay your own eyes on it. The incredible color is an optical illusion created by the mixing of two mineral rich rivers.

If you continue hiking on the trail past the waterfall you can see where the waters of the rivers combine to create a swirl of stunning natural reactions.

After Rio Celeste, head to Llanos de Cortez waterfall. There is an epic shortcut from Rio Celeste that doesn’t appear on Google Maps where if you continue down the road instead of heading back the way you came you’ll cut off around an hour of time; don’t worry the road connects straight to the highway!

The Cortez waterfall was the farthest north we travelled in Costa Rica. The water was warm, set up a hammock on the shore and enjoy the view. Swim up to the waterfall and explore the caves behind the falling water.

Jaco
This small city was a great place to relax for a few days while exploring the surrounding area. Stay at the Buddah Boutique Hostel.

Enjoy a unique boat ride through the beautiful mangroves to get the chance to interact with adorable monkeys with Adventure Tours Costa Rica or a similar company.

Check out perfect waterfalls on a day trip from Jaco to Nauyaca Waterfalls (around 1.5 hour drive).

Eat: The best sushi you’ll ever have in your life is waiting at Tsunami Sushi ($$$).

Panama - The green cufflinks connecting the Americas 

Panama City: The cosmopolitan capital of Panama and home to the Panama Canal. The city links North America to South America, the Atlantic and the Pacific. Needless to say the significance of the city is great and its cultural diversity is captivating.

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The Central American energy is diffused with a sense of futuristic innovation unlike the other countries in Central. It’s duality prevails as both the vibrant metropolis and gateway to tropical islands and inland destinations. Pick any island or region and you won’t be disappointed.

“Many worlds coexist here. Welcoming both east and west, Panama is a regional hub of trade and immigration. The resulting cultural cocktail forges a refreshing ‘anything goes’ attitude, more dynamic and fluid than its neighbors.

Unflinchingly urban, the capital rides the rails of chaos, with traffic jams, wayward taxis and casinos stacked between chic clubs and construction sites. A center of international banking and trade, the sultry skyline of shimmering glass and steel towers is reminiscent of Miami. In contrast, the peninsula of Casco Viejo has become a thriving colonial neighborhood where cobblestones link boutique hotels with underground bars and crumbled ruins with pirate lore.

Escape is never far. Day-trip to sandy beaches (Pacific or Caribbean), admire the canal, or explore lush rainforests of howler monkeys, toucans and sloths.” – Lonely Planet

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Truth Behind the Cheap

Things to consider before choosing Central America for your holiday:

Central America is one of the most affordable travel destinations in the entire world. Low costs of transportation, accommodation and most importantly drinks out at the bar makes this area very appealing for young people or those just looking for a good time without spending a fortune.

Regardless of what is written here you will have a great time visiting Central America. My intention is not to deter you from this destination but to make you more aware than I was about the conditions necessary to create such an affordable environment.

There is always a catch; nothing is ever free whether it costs you time, money, comfort or your health.

Being honest to my personal experience in Central America, I have never eaten worse food in my life. By the end of the trip I could feel my body being starved of the nutrients I had grown accustomed to.

The more rural you are, the less access there is to fresh fruits and vegetables. Some places in Central America are relatively impoverished which greatly affects consumption of the people living there.

Sacrificing healthy food needs to be something you are willing to do in order to enjoy your time in Central America.

Rice and beans were the main staple of our diet. We tried not to eat meat too often, but without other options chicken was always the best choice; especially if you have to eat somewhere questionable.

Even coffee rarely came from anywhere but a jar of powder which surprised us because so many designer coffee vendors in the US advertise “Grown in Guatemala” etc… Apparently the coffee they grow skips their shelves and is exported before they get the chance to brew it themselves.

Try to be aware of where your food is coming from, nothing will ruin a trip faster than food poisoning but chances are you’ll have to take some risks.

We quickly became dependent on processed foods from gas stations or stands off to the side of roads.

On average it must take nearly twice as long to travel by bus than it does by your own vehicle or flying. If time is of no concern to you (have all the time in the world) or you are happy staying in one place then taking buses is the way to go.

If you don’t want to spend the majority of your trip on a bus you either need to limit the number of destinations you visit or pay more for more efficient transportation. If you are on a tight budget it is still worth traveling by bus but if possible it is worth while to avoid.

Personally, I want to make the most of the time I have when I’m traveling.

I don’t go to new countries to simply lay on the beach or hang out in a city for the whole trip. Not that there is anything wrong with that, I simply prefer to have diverse experiences and see everything I possibly can in the time I have.

It is more affordable to stay in one place rather than move around. Its cheaper to take a bus than renting a car or taking a flight. If you don’t have the budget to see everything you want to, prioritize and make something happen.

Only seeing a small part of a country is much better than not going at all.

The exception to most of this information is Costa Rica due to its long history of developing tourism making the country much wealthier and able to accommodate to the wants and needs of tourists.

This section does not apply to Panama City.

Icelandic Road Trip

Traveling in Iceland

On the brim of the Arctic Circle lies an otherworldly island which emerged from the ocean millions of years ago; a divergent from the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates.

Throughout the landscape you’ll find everything from 125+ (30 active!) volcanoes and hot springs around every corner to frigid glacial lagoons and vast snowy peaks. Sunsets last for more than an hour and waterfalls pour out of every cliff. The Isle of Fire and Ice is by far one of the most diverse terrains on earth and the closest I’ve ever felt to being on a different planet.

If you are looking for a unique destination for your holiday that will leave you with unforgettable memories, look no further than Iceland.

Unbeatable prices provided by Iceland’s low-cost WOW air throughout the year makes Iceland a perfect destination for those traveling on a budget, especially when looking to stop over on the way to Europe. If you decide to travel during the off season, which is highly recommended, everything from the airline ticket to rental vehicles will be significantly cheaper.

Whether you are a hiker, photographer or a family looking to vacation Iceland has something to offer everyone. The first week of May is a dream: Sunny and relatively warm weather, helpful off season discounts and very few tourists.

Before You Go: - Plan Ahead of Time 

Buy plane tickets in advance for cheaper prices. The best times of year to go are May or September. If you are planning on staying more than 1 day it is essential to have a vehicle.

There is a major lack of accommodations and it is unrealistic to guess where you’ll end up at night. There is so much freedom in stopping wherever and whenever you want so don’t miss out on that. Camper Van Iceland was a reliable source for rental vehicles and they took the time to answer any questions.

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How to choose the right vehicle for your trip:

How many people need to sleep inside or are you planning on tent camping?
How much can each person can contribute to the price?
Is comfort a priority?
Are you traveling with someone minimally 21 years old?
How do you plan on storing/cooking food?
Do you need a 4×4 or an automatic?

In my experience the bigger the vehicle the better the experience. We rented an RV which required someone over the age 25. 4 people in a “6 person” RV (2 beds, 1 bathroom, storage space, full kitchen with fridge included) was absolutely perfect and having anything smaller would have been uncomfortable.

For a 10 day trip we decided to contribute $500 USD each towards the vehicle, about $50 USD a night which is very reasonable for traveling in Europe.

Budget for gas costing over $7 USD per gallon. It is essential to buy an internet (wifi) package when renting your vehicle, this is the only way to research and use navigation apps to find your way around so don’t skip out.

Helpful Advice: Don’t go to the Blue Lagoon. Advanced reservations and a $75 USD fee are required. Opt for any of the other free, less tourist filled hot springs around the area. Check out HOTPOT ICELAND to find all the hot springs around Iceland.

This was a very helpful resource. If you are set on taking pictures with that iconic baby blue water, go to Myvatn Natural Baths in the Northern region.

There are many places to camp throughout Iceland. Official campgrounds only charge a small fee to stay overnight. Be respectful to the locals and nature by not sleeping in places you aren’t supposed to and don’t use public places as your personal toilet!

Day 1 – Day 2 The Golden Circle

After arriving at the Keflavik airport and acquiring the rental vehicle, drive around 45 minutes to Reykjavik. Depending on your interests, spend time exploring the city or skip it to maximize your time seeing other parts of the country.

Before leaving the city make sure to stock up on groceries. Try Icelandic yogurt, it’s the best! Once you are ready to leave Reykjavik, head towards the Golden Circle.

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Regardless if you have 5 days or 14 days, the 300km Golden Circle route is worth the trip and it’s a convenient place to begin your adventure. The route takes 3 hours but plan for 6+ hours minimum to give yourself time to explore.
The first stop of the trip is taking a dip at one of the oldest swimming pools in Iceland: Secret Lagoon (Flúdir road number 30). The temperature of this natural hot spring pool is 40 °C year-round.

There is also walking paths surrounding the pool so check out the geothermal activity. Entrance fee required.
Next stop is Gullfoss, one of Iceland’s most popular attractions.

The wide and rapid Hvítá river dramatically drops 100 feet into a crevice creating a glorious waterfall of thick misty rainbows. Turn off the main road and once you’ve reached the parking lot, descend the long staircase and follow the concrete path bordering the edge of the ravine to the cascading waterfall.

Explore the alternative trail from the parking lot up a steep staircase to get a different view looking down upon the falls. This area gets windy so bring a waterproof jacket and pants if you plan on getting up close and personal.

Haukadalur Geyers

Haukadalur is a geothermal area famous for it’s geysers Geysir and Strokkur. Geysir no longer erupts but Strokkur erupts 100 feet in the air every 10 minutes or so. The smell of sulfur fills the air as steam permeates through underground vents. Mineral deposits and mud pools surround the geysers making a playground for anyone with an interest in geology.

The Geyser is about 60 km away from Pingvellir National Park which is also worth a stop on the Golden Circle. This is the location where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates separate to form deep fissures in the ground.

The tectonic rift travels through the national park creating an epic waterfall with well made walkways throughout the park. Close by is Silfra, the diving location filled with clear, icy glacier water.
Last stop on the Golden Circle route is Brúarfoss (GPS: 64° 16’01.6”N 20° 31’17.8”W).

The incredible blue color is not enhanced, the only explanation for this would be bubbles from the waterfall are trapped within a deep crevice creating a tunnel-like enclosure for the rushing water.

Simple directions: From Mosfellsbær you’ll be looking for Brekkuskógar camping area. Turn onto road 36 to pingvellir. Next take road 365 toward Laugarvatn.

Turn onto road 37 and cross road 355. Roughly 3 km after road 355 there will be a large summer house area, take the third road into this area and continue driving straight. Follow this gravel road until you reach a path with two tracks.

Turn left and drive until you find the end of the road; there will be a small parking area. A small trail will lead you over a small bridge, take a left to stay on the trail. You’re in the right place if the area is covered in orange bushes. After walking 5-10 minutes you will find Brúarfoss.

Day 3 - The Ring Road

Begin heading south east on the Ring Road. One of the best geothermal pools in Iceland is along this route. It’s called Seljavallalaug and is well worth the journey down a long, bumpy dirt road.

Continuing east, stop at Seljalandsfoss during the evening to avoid flocks of tourists. This is a magical location to watch the sun set located only a few minutes off of the Ring Road.

There is a picturesque footpath that will lead behind the 60 meter waterfall to the base of the cliff. Other waterfalls including Gljúfurárfoss can be seen along this cliff but they are often overlooked in comparison.

Further to the east you will find Skógafoss, the most popular waterfall in Iceland. 25 meters wide, 60 meters high and constantly jam packed with tourists.

The waterfall is extremely misty which creates a double rainbow on sunny days. The Skógá River flows over the cliffs which mark the former coastline. This is also a popular place for camping.

Road trip traditions: Make sure to stop and grab a gas station hot dog. It sounds funny but if you’re traveling on a budget and looking for something unique, tasty and cheap it adds to the experience!

Day 4 - Glacier Lagoon and Eastern Iceland

There are many opportunities to stop along the south coast of the Ring Road but in order to see the whole island in a small amount of time you must prioritize.

If possible do not stop often between Vik and Höfn. Head to Jökulsárlón (Glacier Lagoon) one of Iceland’s most popular attractions near Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest glacier. The lagoon gets larger as the glacier gets smaller each year, demonstrating the extreme effects of global warming. Each time you visit Jökulsárlón will be unique because the landscape is ever-changing.

Check out Diamond Beach to see the glistening ice washing up from the Atlantic Ocean onto the black sand. If you’re lucky you might even see a few seals swimming around the lagoon! If you are interested in a boat tour, glacier walk/caving expedition this is the place to do so.

The lagoon is accessible all year round weather permitting.

-The lagoon is around 5-6 hours away from Reykjavík so if your trip is only 2-3 days this is the turn around point.
After Jökulsárlón head north east in the direction of Akureryi.

Day 5 -Day 6 - Myvatn and Dettifoss: The Diamond Circle

Once you’ve reached the northern region make an essential stop at Dettifoss: the most powerful waterfall in Europe averaging 96,500 gallons of water falling per second.

The translation of Dettifoss is “collapsing waterfall” with bone shattering drops surrounding the 45 meter behemoth. Dettifoss was showcased in the opening scene of Ridley Scott’s 2012 Alien prequel Prometheus. The forceful waterfall creates mist that can be seen from miles away. Located in Vatnajökull National Park, the waterfall is runoff from Vatnajökull glacier which causes the sediment rich water to be grayish white in color.
Directions: From the Ring Road turn onto road 864.

Check road conditions before beginning the drive because the road is closed during the winter and does not open until early May.

If you have extra time hike upriver in the Jökulsárglijúfur canyon to Selfoss, another beautiful set of waterfalls which are often overlooked in comparison to Dettifoss.

Myvatn: The Iceland you’e always dreamed of: serene volcanic landscape
Lake Myvatn is a best kept secret in the north with many worthy places to visit. Filled with otherworldly terrain including steam vents, bubbling mud pits and volcanic craters.

This is the closest you will ever feel to being on Mars.

Myvatn Natural Baths is a must-visit naturally heated lagoon filled with blue water comparable to the Blue Lagoon but without the tourists and half the price!

Where to Eat: The Cowshed
The Cowshed is a local farm-to-table restaurant where the animals are raised with love, dignity and respect. From an American perspective this high standard of living is rare. Most US meat products (unless otherwise stated) are filled with harmful pathogens and antibiotics and they are raised in extremely cruel, fear inducing conditions.

On the bright side, wonderful places like the Cowshed exist that place a priority on the wellbeing of the animals to get a highly nutritious result. Before you even walk inside the restaurant you can see the living conditions of the livestock and say hello! These are some of the most friendly cows I’ve ever met, they were so happy to receive attention. Needless to say I was quickly covered in their saliva from nonstop licking.

Grjótagjá
Grjótagjá is a small hot spring cave in the Lake Myvatn area. Heated by volcanic activity, the cave is currently too hot to swim in but is worth a visit to admire its beauty. It is also prohibited to take a dip in an attempt to preserve the pristine conditions within the cave. The hot spring cave was used as a film location in the popular television show Game of Thrones season three episode Kissed by Fire. The secret love nest where Jon Snow lost his v-card to Ygritte is a fantasy destination for any fan of the series.

If you aren’t done chasing waterfalls check out Godafoss.

Day 7 - Akureyri

Spend some time visiting Iceland’s second largest city, Akureyri. The city is small but full of charisma with good places to eat and nice shops.

Day 8 – Day 10 - Reykjavík Bound

After passing through Akureyri, you are officially heading back towards Reykjavík. Continue on the Ring Road through the fjords along the coast. Depending on the time of year, the sun doesn’t go down completely in this area so don’t plan on getting much sleep.

The fast pace of the trip can begin to slow down depending on how many days you have left. Plan ahead accordingly. Remember to check the hot pot map to see if any hot springs align with your route along the way. Enjoy your last few days in the wonderful country of Iceland!

Travel Requirements: Guinness World Record

Rules of the Guinness World Records

All of the following information has been provided by Guinness World Records regarding the mandatory guidelines required to break the world record for “Youngest Person to Travel to All Sovereign Countries”

Record definition

• This record is for the youngest person to visit all the member states of the UN plus the Vatican (Holy See) and Taiwan (which are effectively sovereign, but not UN members). No other territories will be considered.

• This record is to be attempted by an individual.

• This record is measured in years and days.

Rules for Youngest person to travel to all sovereign countries

1. This record is for the youngest person to visit all the member states of the UN plus the Vatican (Holy See) and Taiwan (which are effectively sovereign, but not UN members). No other territories will be considered.

2. No person under the age of 16 may attempt this record. Documentary evidence of permission must be provided for any participants who are between 16-18 years.

3. A copy of the birth certificate of the challenger must be submitted with the record claim. If the person has been married, a copy of the marriage certificate is also required.

4. Visiting a country is defined as setting foot within its border. It is not necessary to remain in any country for any length of time. Video/photo evidence, at a recognisable landmark/border sign within each country must be provided. If this is not provided, the claim may be rejected.

5. The challenger must provide proof that he/she has used chartered/private transport (i.e. taxi, boat, etc.) and give a thorough explanation as to why it was used. At no point can the challenger be in control of the vehicle used (i.e. driving). If it is found that more than 20% of the journey was travelled using chartered transport or that the challenger was in control of any vessel chartered, the claim will be rejected.

6. Receipts and/or tickets for all journeys must be obtained and should be submitted in chronological order (i.e. making clear exactly how the travel progressed). There should be no significant ‘gaps’ in this evidence.

7. Passport stamps must be obtained for all border crossings. In cases where this is not provided, unambiguous photo/video evidence is required and the challenger should have a professional witness (e.g. border personnel) prepare a statement that confirms where the challenger was.

8. A copy of the challenger’s passport must be submitted in order to help corroborate the other evidence.

9. Photographs should be provided of the challenger in front of recognisable landmarks in each country. Photographs at the airport are also acceptable.

10. The ‘clock’ starts the moment the challenger enters the first country, and does not stop for any reason until he/she sets foot in the final country.

11. The record will be based on the age of the challenger at the moment he/she sets foot in the final country.

Rules for ‘visiting all sovereign countries’ records

Please make sure you follow ALL these rules:

a)    Countries eligible for this record are the member states of the UN plus the Vatican (Holy See) and Taiwan (which are effectively sovereign, but not UN members). No other territories will be considered. A list of current UN member states can be found at http://www.un.org/en/members/index.shtml.
b)    ‘Visiting’ a country is defined as setting foot within its border. It is not necessary to remain in any country for any length of time.
c)    The proposed itinerary must be submitted to Guinness World Records before the attempt begins.
d)    Guinness World Records cannot endorse a ‘race against the clock’ on public roads and for this reason, only scheduled public or chartered transport may be used (i.e. scheduled or chartered flights, buses, trains, scheduled ship/ferry journeys and taxi journeys).
e)    All transport must be paid for and receipts submitted as part of the evidence. No form of personal transport may be used at any time.
f)    The clock starts the moment the challenger enters the first country and does not stop for any reason until they set foot in the final country.
g)    No distinction will be made between supported and unsupported journeys.
h)    Receipts and/or tickets must be obtained for all journeys and must be submitted in chronological order (i.e. making clear exactly how the travel progressed). There must be no significant gaps in this evidence.
i)    A copy of the traveller’s passport must be submitted in order to help corroborate the other evidence.
j)    As a general rule, the participant must not remain stationary (i.e. if he/she does not make any progress towards his/her destination) for longer than 14 days. Any delays longer than this must have a very good reason (e.g. injury) and must be accounted for to Guinness World Records. Note that delays that cannot be reasonably justified may result in disqualification.